The Mine Shaft Tavern – Madrid, New Mexico

“You load sixteen tons and what do you get?
Another day older and deeper in debt.
St. Peter, don’t you call me cause I can’t go.
I owe my soul to the company store.”

Those immortal lyrics, hauntingly performed by crooner Tennessee Ernie Ford describe with a poignant reality, the plight of the American miner even onto the 20th century. By payday, which came at month’s end, miners did indeed owe their souls to the company–for the company house in which they were living, for groceries to feed their families, for doctor bills and even for the tools they used to mine.

They were paid in scrip which could only be spent at the company store, leaving them no choice but to buy from the companies. Despicably, this allowed the company to gouge the miners with vastly over-inflated prices, leaving miners with families inextricably in debt to the company. When they got paid at month’s end, any money left after settling their debts to the company was insufficient to last through the following month. This vicious cycle was perpetuated the following month when miners again had to pay the company first and were lucky to have anything left for their families.

Although many miners of the age toiled under hazardous working conditions and in virtual indentured servitude while despotic mine owners and managers benefited from their labors, Madrid’s superintendent of mines Oscar Huber was a unique sort. Under his direction, the citizenry of Madrid enjoyed unlimited electricity in their homes courtesy of the company-owned power plant, paved streets, schools, a company store and even a hospital. Commerce was still controlled by the company, however, so miners wages ultimately returned back to the owners’ pockets.

When given the opportunity, the miners played as hard as they worked. In 1922, Huber built the first illuminated baseball park (still in use today) west of the Mississippi. The outdoor “stadium” served as home to the Madrid Miners, a farm team for the Brooklyn Dodgers who played a game in the park in 1934. Madrid was also home to one of the most elaborate and famous Christmas light displays in America. From the 1920s through the advent of World War II, Madrid miners lit up the sky with 150,000 Christmas lights powered by 500,000 kilowatt hours of electricity provided by the company’s coal-fed generators. Commercial planes used to divert from their normal routes in order to fly over Madrid so passengers could enjoy the pageantry.

The last “company town” building erected in Madrid was the storied Mine Shaft Tavern whose doors opened in 1947. Within the tavern only those familiar with the difficult mining conditions pause to reflect on that heart-wrenching aspect of Madrid’s colorful history. Other patrons are there to have a good time thanks to high quality tavern food and libations which flow freely.  The Mine Shaft Tavern was profiled in an October, 2024 edition of New Mexico Magazine.  A feature titled “Old West Saloons” explained that the 40-foot long mahogany bar top was original to the 1895 saloon that burned down.  That bar top is unique because it’s so tall.  Lori Lindsey explained that “the miners who had bent over all day, could stand and stretch their backs at it.

The Mine Shaft Tavern is especially popular with old hippies and Harley Davidson enthusiasts whose “hogs” take up many of the parking spaces. The bikers congregate on the porch where they have an excellent vantage point from which to admire their bikes and those of their fellow easy riders. The tavern’s dimly lit interior appears relatively unchanged since the 1940s with canned lights that are indeed made from tin cans. Above the longest stand-up bar in New Mexico, a series of paintings by renown artist Ross J. Ward depicts Madrid’s colorful history.

From a culinary perspective only, our inaugural visit to the Mine Shift Tavern back in 2005 was a disappointment. The menu was rather lackluster and the quality of fare was pedestrian. It might best be described as “company store quality.” Marked improvement was evident during my second visit in 2011 when I dined at the Mine Shaft Tavern for a “Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner” article in New Mexico Magazine. What a difference a change of ownership can make! In 2009, Lori Lindsey purchased the Mine Shift Tavern and has made it not only “Madrid’s living room,” but one of its best dining rooms.

Under Lori’s leadership, a greatly expanded and improved menu showcases a number of specialty burgers, grilled pizza and specials such as enchiladas, fish and chips and a smoked barbecue sandwich.  You’re invited to dine indoors in the historic Tavern or outdoors on the patio overlooking scenic Madrid at the Cantina.  Visit on weekends and that patio is the usually jam packed as is the parking lot in which motorcycles take up many of the spaces.  If it’s been a while since your last visit to the Mine Shaft Tavern, you might be surprised at how much more varied and inviting the menu now is.  High quality wagyu beef is sourced from Lone Mountain Ranch in nearby Golden.  Buffalo is obtained from Chavez Ranch just outside Madrid.

In June, 2024, Tastemade, a modern media company that streams wonderful food and travel content, added  enchantment to its repertoire when it visited Santa Fe and Madrid eateries.  In a program titled “Worth The Hype,” host Frankie Celenza featured Santa Fe’s Plaza Cafe, The Pink Adobe and Sazon as well as the Mine Shaft Tavern.  Lori and Chef Edgar Aragon demonstated their take on “New Mexican with a twist” cuisine featuring New Mexico’s sacrosanct green chile from Hatch.  First, they showed Celenza how the restaurant’s fabulous tempura battered green chile is made.  They then crafted the Mine Shaft Tavern’s award-winning Mad Chile Burger made with wagyu beef, chipotle dijonnaise, freshly chopped Hatch green chile and a tempura battered green chile strip.  “Wow” was the host’s immediate reaction followed by other exclamations of enthusiastic approval.  That’s pretty common among New Mexicans who love the Mad Chile Burger.

During our visit in July, 2024, I espied Lori in conversation with a young lady who seemed enthralled by what Lori was saying.  After excusing myself for interrupting their conversation, I raved about Lori’s ambassadorial performance on Tastemade and followed up by waxing eloquent about the Mad Chile Burger.  By some quirk of fate, the woman with whom Lori was speaking was a travel writer penning an article on New Mexico’s green chile cheeseburgers.  Lori joked that the writer was going to suspect I had been paid for my enthusiasm about the Mine Shaft Tavern.   Still, the writer asked for my name and asked if she could quote me.  Naturally I forgot to ask what publication would be graced by the article.

30 July 2024:  With brother-in-law Tim and his bride Lola joining us, we marveled at the diversity of the menu.  As the only native New Mexican and sole fire-eater at our table, there could be no other choice but the Mad Chile Burger.  The only fire Tim would accede to trying was the salsa and chips.  As salsa goes, it wasn’t very piquant despite the presence of chopped jalapeños.  Still, it was a very good salsa and the crisp, low-salt chips were an excellent vehicle for scooping up Gil-sized portions of that salsa.  We also enjoyed the guacamole which had no heat at all but was well seasoned and delicious.

30 July 2024:  For my Kim and Tim’s Lola, the hour plus trip to Madrid was a resounding success because of the artichoke hearts (seasoned and fried, served with ranch dressing).  Though we’ve had artichoke hearts a plenty, we’d never before had them fried to a golden-crusted color.  They were a delightful discovery.  Some were “meaty” and moist.  Others were wispy and crisp.  All were tasty, earthy and comforting.  You can bet we’ll be visiting the Mine Shaft Tavern more often so my Kim can get her fried artichoke heart fix.

30 July 2024:  The Tavern’s six specialty burgers are available from your choice of half-pound Angus, New Mexico Wagyu, Buffalo or Veggie. The newest specialty burger was created in 2014 for the second annual green chile cheeseburger smackdown in Santa Fe. It’s called the “Mad Chile Burger” for good reason–because most New Mexicans are absolutely mad about green chile. The more, the better! If this describes you, you’ll love the duo of roasted green chile and lightly battered and fried green chile strips. The Mad Chile Burger also includes a half-pound black angus chuck, aged Cheddar and chipotle Dijonaisse on a brioche bun with garnish (pickles, tomatoes, lettuce) on the side.

The first time I ordered the Mad Chile Burger, my server (who also happened to be Lori’s niece) was very prophetic in telling me it would be the winning green chile cheeseburger in the Smackdown two days later. I was skeptical until my second bite when the Chipotle Dijonaisse kicked it. With the heat-generating triumvirate of roasted and chopped green chile, battered and fried green chile and Chipotle Dijonaisse, this burger blesses you with three times the love and three times the flavor you get from most green chile cheeseburgers. The battered and fried green chile strips, similar to a chile relleno without the cheese, are especially addictive. The Chipotle Dijonaisse has the tanginess of mustard with the piquant kick of chipotle, a combination which renders mustard unnecessary. In fact, to add anything else to this burger would be to desecrate it. It is simply one of the very best green chile cheeseburgers in New Mexico. Smackdown attendees obviously agreed, according the Mad Chile Burger the “people’s choice” award for 2014.

30 July 2024: All burgers are served with your choice of fresh cut French fries or coleslaw. For a pittance more, you can substitute a salad, sweet potato fries black and tan onion rings. Better still, order an appetizer-sized Hatch green chile basket, the same fried, fire-roasted Hatch green chiles found on the Mad Chile Burger. Served with Ranch dressing, these green chiles will give you yet another reason to be mad about green chile.  Also very New Mexican is the Tavern’s green chile stew, a heart-warming rendition of comfort food deliciousness.  It’s replete with cubed beef, potatoes and of course, green chile.

30 July 2024:  My Kim may be the only human on Earth capable of eschewing burgers and opting for a salad instead.  Among her very favorites is the Caprese Salad which is named after the famous white-cliffed resort island of Capri in the south of Italy.  She marvels that something so simple can be so flavorful.  Comprised of thick slices of tomato and mozzarella flavored with fresh basil leaves, a drizzle of olive oil, and a beautiful balsamic reduction, it’s a wholesome, healthful salad.  The Mine Shaft Tavern’s version is as delicious as it is delightful to ogle.

Fittingly, the Mine Shaft Tavern is on the New Mexico Green Chile Cheeseburger Trail and was also recognized by the New Mexico Tourism Department as a Culinary Treasure.  From both an experiential and a gastronomic perspective, it’s one of the Land of Enchantment’s best “must visit” restaurants.