Red and Green: New Mexico’s Culinary Scene is on Fire: November, 2024

Sunday’s Bagel & Lox From Sammy’s Cafe & Deli

ALBUQUERQUE VEGAN RESTAURANT AMONG AMERICA’S TOP 100: In its compilation of the Top 100 Vegan Restaurants in the US for 2024, Yelp elaborated: “Once a niche cuisine, plant-based food—free of animal ingredients—is now a top dining trend, as more consumers choose diets for a healthier body and planet.”  Everyman philosopher Homer Simpson continues to resist that trend, preferring pork-based products to health: “I’d be vegetarian if bacon grew on trees.”  One point Yelp didn’t make is that vegan and vegetarian restaurants are serving food that’s absolutely delicious–whether it’s Mediterranean, Mexican or Moroccan.   As Albuquerque’s Vegos Vegan New Mexican has proven, even New Mexican cuisine can be made deliciously vegan style.  Vegos ranked 66th in Yelp’s compilation.

TALKING ABOUT TACOS:  Tacos aren’t just for Tuesdays anymore.  Mexico’s most popular import is now an everday food for breakfast, lunch, dinner and even dessert.  The versatility of tacos has made them one of America’s most popular foods with an estimated 4.5 billion were eaten last year alone.   So, it wasn’t just me.  Yelp’s compilation of the Best Taco Spot in Every State for 2024 sure got it right in naming Santa Fe’s El Chile Toreado as home to the Land of Enchantment’s best tacos.  Operating out of a food truck, this denizen of terrific tacos was a James Beard Best Chef: Southwest semifinalist in 2023.  El Chile Toreado has been serving the City Different for nearly three decades and it’s not solely tacos being proffered.  Their burritos are fabulous.

Green Chile Biscuits with Honey Whipped Butter from Tula’s Kitchen

TOP 100 US RESTAURANTS FOR 2024:  With the year’s end quickly approaching, Yelp has been busy wrapping up its “top 100” lists for the year.  Perhaps the most coveted of Yelp’s lists–because it covers restaurants of every genre– is Yelp’s “Top 100 US Restaurants for 2024.”  Only one restaurant from the Land of Enchantment made this hallowed list.  I can’t tell you if that honor is warranted as Albuquerque’s St. James Tearoom is a restaurant we have yet to visit (much to my Kim’s chagrin).

AMERICA’S GREATEST BURGER–A NEW MEXICO STAPLE:  As a native of Southern California who grew up in the shadow of the almighty In-N-Out Burger, Ken Hulsey has probably been unfriended on social media because of his choice for America’s best burger.  When his family moved to New Mexico he discovered what he now considers the best hamburger in America: the mighty Blake’s Lotaburger.  Hulsey, a tremendous blogger who invites readers to share in his travel journeys, has profound fondness for other New Mexican staples: “Blake’s culinary greatness extends well beyond their acclaimed green chile cheeseburger, which has captivated the taste buds of explorers and nature photographers alike. Their fries are also exceptional, and I would pit their breakfast burrito against any other contender – with the possible exception of the legendary offerings once sold at the Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta.”

Korean Fried Chicken from K-Style Kitchen

NEW MEXICO CHEF CELEBRATES NATIVE AMERICAN HERITAGE MONTH:  In 2023, New Mexico’s own Chef Justin Pioche was a finalist for the prestigious James Beard Foundation’s Best Chef: Southwest.  Don’t discount him earning top honors in the near future.  Chef Pioche recently collaborated with Chef Elena Terry on the James Beard Platform, Resurgence ‘A Culinary Celebration for Native American Heritage Month.”  Terry, a member of the Ho-Chunk Nation living in Wisconsin Dells, is a chef and founder of Wild Bearies, a nonprofit organization dedicated to providing and educating about Indigenous foods and the culture around those foods.  The two Native American chefs prepared a special dinner that honors the rich tapestry of Indigenous ingredients and culinary traditions, highlighting traditional ingredients and cooking techniques passed down through generations.

SANTA FE RESTAURANT AMONG AMERICA’S TOP 100:  Some “best restaurant” lists are decided by critics.  Some “best” lists are derived from social media crowd-sourcing. OpenTable boasts that its Top 100 list is “driven by diners.”  OpenTable’s Top 100 Restaurants in America for 2024 list is generated from over 14 million verified OpenTable diner reviews and dining metrics from October 1, 2023 to September 30, 2024. Factors taken into account include by a compilation of unique data points, including diner ratings, the percentage of five star reviews, the number of alerts set, the percentage of reservations made in advance, percentage of capacity and direct searches. Metrics were weighted to comprise an overall score, used to rank the list.  Only one restaurant across the Land of Enchantment made OpenTables top 100.  That restaurant is Santa Fe’s heralded Geronimo.

Bowl of Green Chile and Beans from Mick’s Chile Fix

KINDNESS IN SANTA FE:  Visit Santa Fe’s Escondido between now and December 13th and order off the “World Kindness Menu” and you’ll be supporting two amazing non-profit organizations and their programs and causes!  All money raised from the World Kindness Menu will be split between the Entrepreneurial Institute of Northern New Mexico Reentry Program, directed by Chef Fernando Ruiz and the Street Homeless Animal Project (SHAP).  The three-course World Kindness menu includes an appetizer, entree and dessert for only$80.

MORE HONORS FOR ALTRUISTIC CHEF:  Chef Fernando Ruiz of Santa Fe’s Escondido earned the Corazon de Cultura Award in the Culinary Arts division for 2024.  It was awarded and presented by the New Mexico Hispanic Heritage Committee, as it recognizes outstanding individuals, businesses, and nonprofits within our Hispanic community.  The December, 2024 issue of New Mexico Magazine profiled Chef Ruiz, naming him one of the Land of Enchantment’s “2024 True Heroes.”

Two Meat Platter from Duke City BBQ

STUFF YOURSELF OVER THE HOLIDAYS: Campbell’s Company recently released its third annual State of the Sides report, which examines Thanksgiving side dishes and recipe trends.  The study also ranked the country’s favorite Thanksgiving side dishes by state.  Stuffing, or dressing, depending on where you live, dominates the map with only a few states crowning mashed potatoes, as the top Thanksgiving side.  New Mexico was not among the states preferring mashed potatoes.  The Land of Enchantment’s favorite Thanksgiving side is (gasp) not red or green chile as you might expect, but stuffing.  Stuffing is the preferred side among all demographics: Millennials, Gen Xers, the Silent Generation and even Baby Boomers.  Interestingly 56% of respondents prefer sides to turkey.

October, 2024

Won Ton in Chili Oil From Red Chilli House in Albuquerque

DEFINITIVE TEXAS BARBECUE IN NEW MEXICO:  After scouring the country for sixteen months, traveling to 37 states to try 149 Texas-style barbecue joints, Texas Monthly’s barbecue editor (the job I’d love to have) learned that Texas barbecue has become so influential that it is now THE definitive barbecue style of America.  Only one barbecue restaurant in New Mexico made the list, but it’s a great one.  Fittingly it’s got its roots in Lockhart, Texas, the legislatively decreed “barbecue capital of Texas.”  That anointed restaurant is Mad Jack’s Mountaintop Barbecue in Cloudcroft.  It’s the closest to Texas barbecue as there is in the Land of Enchantment.

HONORING NEW MEXICO’S BEST: The New Mexico Restaurant Association (NMRA) hosted its annual Hospitality Industry Awards. Five awards were given to restauranteurs for their contributions to New Mexico’s food and hospitality industries.

  • Wayne Moore, chief operations officer of D.H. Lescombes Winery and Bistro, earned the Restaurateur of the Year award.
  • The Chef of the Year award was given to Santa Fe’s Ahmed Obo, chef and owner of Jambo Café and Jambo Bobcat Bite.
  • The Manager of the Year award went to Russell Reid, the general manager of Two Fool’s Tavern in Albuquerque.
  • Lisa and Scott Stevens, owners of Ruidoso’s Anaheim Jacks, earned the Community Service Award, which honors a restaurant that has played a pivotal role in serving and giving back to the community around them.
  • Basit Gauba, executive vice president of Albuquerque’s Tikka Brands, received the Faces of Diversity award.
Chantilly Cake From Upscale Rio in Rio Rancho

GOLDEN CHILE AWARD WINNERS:  New Mexico Grown, which celebrates “food from the land, nourishment for the people” announced winners of its Golden Chile award:

  • Project Feed the Hood: Sowing Change Award for Organizations Engaged in Creating Sustainable Food Systems
  • Acoma Ancestral Lands Conservation Corps: Heart of the Land Award for Outstanding Leadership in Farming and Ranching
  • Aztec Farmers’ Market: Good Food for New Mexico Award Celebrating Farmers’ Markets
  • Chicoyole Farm and Donne Gonzales: Growing the Future Award for New/Young Farmers and Ranchers
  • Cultivating Bernalillo County Grow the Growers Program: Heart of the Land Award for Outstanding Leadership in Farming and Ranching

NEW MEXICAN RESTAURANTS IN PHOENIX:  Snowbirds from the Land of Enchantment who visit Phoenix in winter to escape New Mexico’s cold don’t have to miss out on New Mexico’s sacrosanct foods.  A number of New Mexican restaurants have launched in the Valley of The Sun.  Yelp celebrates these outliers in “The Best 10 New Mexican Cuisine in Phoenix” feature.  A Phoenix New Times feature in 2019 also celebrated “10 New Mexican Restaurants of New Mexico in Metro Phoenix.”  All those years of business trips to the Phoenix area and all I could find was one restaurant that reminded me of home…how times have changed.

Soup Dumplings from Budai Gourmet Chinese

ANOTHER LIST OF ALBUQUERQUE’S BEST RESTAURANTS:  Arizona-based writer and food adventurer  Steven Luna compiled a list of “The 27 Best Restaurants in Albuquerque for 2024.”   It’s an interesting list though it begs the question how can a “committed vegan for more than a decade” put together a list of restaurants catering largely to carnivores.  It’s likely this list of “usual suspects” is yet another compilation based on researching other lists on the internet.

September, 2024

2024 Green Chile Cheeseburger Smackdown Award Winning Burger from Sobremesa

LAYING THE SMACK DOWN:  Autumn in New Mexico is indisputably chile time. The high mountain air is at its most crisp and salubrious. Foliage is adorned in a vibrant panoply of color. Magnificent cottonwoods and aspens gleam in the evening sun like the fabled cities of gold sought by Spanish explorers. Hazy smoke plumes waft upward from giant rotating drums.  Edible New Mexico hosts its annual Green Chile Cheeseburger Smackdown.   Purveyors of New Mexico’s sacrosanct burger are invited to “toss their spatulas in the ring, throw down, and become the reigning champs.”  There’s no disputing 2024’s Smackdown winner.  Albuquerque’s Sobremesa earned both the prestigious judge’s award and the people’s choice award.  In doing so, Sobremesa vanquished Capitan’s Oso Grill which for years has thoroughly dominated the New Mexico State Fair’s Cheeseburger Challenge competition.

MORE THAN JUST A FAIR GREEN CHILE CHEESEBURGER:  With the Oso Grill not in the picture, the New Mexico State Fair’s Green Chile Cheeseburger Challenge was assured a different winner.  Ten contestants from throughout the Land of Enchantment competed in the Fair’s most popular food event.  A panel of distinguished judges crowned Isleta Grill, near Isleta Resort and Casino, as the winner. The People’s Choice Award went to Craft Republic based in Albuquerque.

Chicken Dumplings From Kokio Chicken

MORE HONORS FOR CHEF QUIÑONES:  His resume is already impressive, listing achievements and accolades other chefs envy.  Chef Marc Quiñones exemplifies the axiom that “if you want something done right, give it to the busiest person.”  Despite being in the throes of a successful restaurant (Ex Novo) start-up, the indefatigable chef and his talented friend and protege Richard Padilla visited New York City where they wowed diners at the exclusive James Beard House.  A James Beard Foundation “Best Chef – Southwest” semifinalist in 2024, Chef Quiñones was also selected to  serve as an advisor/mentor in the Foundation’s Legacy Network Program which “trains emerging leaders across the culinary industry and connects them with future generations of excellence.”  In his role as mentor and advisor, Chef Quiñones spends several hours a week coaching them on how to advance professional goals and seek the necessary support to do so.

LAND OF ENCHANTMENT BOASTS TWO ELITE BURGERS:   Yelp defines its “Elites” as “active reviewers who are selected based on their well-written reviews, high-quality photos, and passion for local businesses.”   According to Yelp Elites, two New Mexico institutions for cheeseburgers made their “all-time list of the best burger places in the United States.” The selection process  began by identifying businesses in the “burgers category,” then ranked those spots using a number of factors, including the total volume and ratings of reviews​ among Yelp Elites.  Ranking number fifteen on the list is Sparky’s Burgers, Barbecue & Espresso.  At number nineteen is Santa Fe’s eponymous Santa Fe Bite.

Slice of Combo Sicilian Pizza From Luigi’s

NEW MEXICO LIVING MEANS DION’S PIZZA:  New Mexico Living, a FOX New Mexico morning talk show celebrating what all New Mexicans know – our pride in living local–announced the second of its “Best of the Land of Enchantment” awards.   Dion’s Pizza took home the “best pizza” award.  Ubiquitous in Albuquerque and gaining a foothold in other New Mexican cities, Dion’s is renowned for its fresh ingredients, friendly service and a proprietary blend of green chile.  Is it any wonder the 505 Pizza (cheese pizza, with pepperoni and green chile) is among the most popular items at the prolific pizzeria?

CRAVING THAT HATCH CHILE:  Denizens of the Land of Enchantment are spoiled.  We often take for granted our sacrosanct red and green chile is always there for us.  It excites our taste buds and it comforts us.  A San Antonio Fox news program reported that in 1995, “Central Market put out a single pallet of hatch peppers and within ten minutes customers cleaned them out, and today Hatch peppers are some of the most craved peppersin the southwest.”  Chef Treva Chadwell from Central Market shared some of her favorite Hatch peppers recipes including one for lasagna made with salsa.

Pistachio Baklava from Al-Qud’s Mediterranean Grill & Grocery

NEW MEXICO’S DINERS EMBRACING NEW NATIVE AMERICAN FOOD:  Food & Wine reports that “New Native American Food is Emerging in New Mexico.”  The article declares that “Blue corn gnocchi and frybread tacos are the modern iterations of Indigenous cuisine, complete with the three sisters and New Mexico’s trademark chile peppers.”  Sounds great to me!  If your stereotype of Native American cuisine is limited to mutton stew and fry bread, this revelatory piece will open your eyes and taste buds to delicious new possibilities.

August, 2024

Chimichangas From Pete’s Cafe in Belen (Photo Courtesy of Lynn Garner)

GREEN CHILE CHEESEBURGERS ON THE WORLD’S TABLE:  BBC.com’s World’s Tablesmashes the kitchen ceiling” by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.”  In a feature titled “The Cheeseburger That Fueled the Manhattan Project ” writer Ellie Seymour introduced BBC readers to the Land of Enchantment’s sacrosanct burger, chronicling her visits to some of the state’s very best:  Sparky’s in Hatch,  The Owl Cafe and Buckhorn Tavern in San Antonio, The Oso Grill in Capitan and The Mineshaft Tavern in Madrid.  The article might just prompt you to take your own road trip so you can reintroduce yourself to New Mexico’s best green chile cheeseburgers.

ALBUQUERQUE’S HIGHEST RATED RESTAURANTS:  Mark Twain famously popularized the axiom, “There are three kinds of lies: lies, damned lies, and statistics.” He referred to personal challenges in understanding figures, and to the idea that statistics can have persuasive power, even (or especially) when used inappropriately.  In business, statistics and data have become increasingly important.  They quantify opinions.  Using TripAdvisor rankings for average rating and number of reviews,  Stacker compiled a list of the highest-rated restaurants in Albuquerque.   You might or might not agree with this list, but it’s based on data not opinion.

Pasta Bolognese From M’Tucci’s Moderno In Rio Rancho

WHERE TO FIND NEW MEXICO’S BEST GREEN CHILE CHEESEBURGER:  American actress and singer Lovelle Drachman believes: “Blessed are the curious, for they shall have adventures.”  It’s a philosophy by which recreational vehicle (RV) owners live.  Writing for the RVTravel website, Cheri Sicard compiled a list detailing Where to Find the Best Green Chile Cheeseburger in New Mexico.  Cheri put a lot of miles on her RV, spending the first six months of 2024 exploring the Land of Enchantment.  Her list was not a regurgitated recap of the usual suspects.  Her favorite green chile cheeseburger comes from the Legal Tender Saloon in Lamy.  That’s not an oft mentioned choice in many “best” lists, but maybe it warrants a visit (or ten).

BEST SANDWICH IN NEW MEXICO:  New words are added to dictionaries when they’re used often enough that they can be said to “belong”—they’ve become part of the mainstream vernacular. One particularly rich source of new words is the culinary world. In 2014, for example, the Vietnamese term “banh mi” was one of 500 new words added to the American Heritage Dictionary.  You KNOW banh mi belongs in New Mexico when Yelp named the transformative Vietnamese Sandwich to its “Best Sandwich in Every State” list.   It wasn’t just any banh mi, however, but the banh mi from Albuquerque’s Coda Bakery.  According to Yelp: “Vietnamese immigrants have been running this beloved, unassuming bakery since 2007, bringing flavors of Southeast Asia to their signature foot-long banh mi sandwiches on house-baked baguettes. Diners rave about the house-made fried tofu, which Food Network star Guy Fieri says is among the top 3 tofu dishes he’s ever had.

Eggplant Parmesan From Il Localetto Rossi (Photo courtesy of Lynn Garner)

CURBSIDE CUISINE–A FOOD TRUCK TO DINE FOR: Food trucks have certainly come a long way.  Not that very long ago, some of them earned the ignominious distinction of being referred to as “roach coaches.”  Today, food trucks proffer everything from simple sandwiches to gourmet dishes on par with your favorite high-end fine-dining restaurant.  Some have even been nominated for James Beard Foundation awards.  Yelp recently compiled a list of the “Top 30 Picks From the Food Truck Frontier,” spotlighting the best food trucks across Canada and the United States.  From among the tens of thousands of food trucks on that frontier, only one from New Mexico made the list.  That food truck was Bing Tea, a mobile dessert cafe that specializes in boba tea, honeycomb mochi waffles and various desserts.

ALBUQUERQUE’S BEST SOUTHERN FOOD:  Syndicated columnist and comedian Lewis Grizzard defended the purity and authenticity of Southern food:  “I want my chicken fried, gravy on my steak, and I want my green beans cooked and my tomatoes served raw. Too many fancy restaurants serve their green beans raw and then they cook their tomatoes- and give you some sort of hard, dark bread with it. This is an unholy aberration I cannot abide.”  Authentic Southern food is what you enjoy when you dine at Albuquerque’s Nexus Brewery & Restaurant.  Using Yelp data, Stacker recently named Nexus as the #1 Southern restaurant in Albuquerque.  At Nexus you’re guaranteed fried chicken, some of the very best in the state.

Cinnamon Roll From Sergio’s Bakery & Cafe

NEW MEXICO’S BEST RED CHILE:  Red or green?  As with political ideology, it’s a question that can divide New Mexicans.  Some prefer green while others are loyal to red.  Thankfully, we’re not forced to choose only one.  Savvy diners opt to have both red and green–Christmas on their plate.   Starting August 19th, KRQE’s New Mexico Living began unveiling the winners for the first Best of the Land of Enchantment Awards.  The awards aim to recognize local favorites.  San Antonio’s Buckhorn Tavern was selected as New Mexico’s top spot for red chile, earning the first Best of the Land of Enchantment award.  Many of us are familiar with the Buckhorn Tavern’s world-famous green chile cheeseburger.  It’s time to pay a visit to San Antonio to try that soon-to-be-famous red chile.

July, 2024

Garlic Naan From Kabab & Curry

HOT DOGS EVERY CHICAGOAN SHOULD TRY:  Chicagoans are notoriously finicky about hot dogs.  They eschew ketchup on hot dogs with the same degree of passion vampires have against wooden stakes.  Former United States President Barack Obama, himself a proud Chicagoan, was once asked about the propriety of ketchup on hot dogs.  He didn’t waffle on his response, nor did he try to appease both sides of the aisle: “No. Never.’ After the age of 8, an intervention is required.”  Chicago hot dogs are bountiful in their ingredient composition: all-beef frankfurter (such as Vienna Beef) in a poppy seed bun, topped with yellow mustard, neon-green sweet pickle relish, chopped white onion, tomato slices, a dill pickle spear, pickled sport peppers and celery salt.  In an audacious feature titled “Top 25 hot dogs every Chicagoan should try in their lifetime” Yelp decided to give Chicagoans alternatives.  Included among them is Albuquerque’s own Clowndog Hot Dog Parlor.  Maybe Yelp thinks Chicagoans will like Fruit Loops on their hot dogs more than they like ketchup.

FINGER-LICKING CHICKEN IN NEW MEXICO:  July 6th was National Fried Chicken Day.  For many of us, it should be a national holiday complete with a day off.  To commemorate this special day, Yelp ask its Elites to identify the best fried chicken in every state.  According to Yelp’s Elite squad, the Land of Enchantment’s best fried chicken comes from Albuquerque’s Kukri, at the 505 Central Food Hall, the same great urban food hall where you can find Thicc Pizza Co. (my favorite Duke City pizza, by the way).  Kukri’s fiery chicken is made from a hybrid of incendiary Pakistani spices  as well as Nashville hot spices.  The description for the “Insanely Hot” chicken reads “You crazy.  Don’t do it.  It’s not worth it.”  You can bet manly men throughout the metropolitan area will be trying to prove their mettle.

A Navajo Prayer Hung on the Walls at Jerry’s Cafe in Gallup

NEW MEXICAN CUISINE IN ASIA:  Those of us who have served in the military and been stationed overseas (or at any base not in New Mexico) deserve hazardous duty pay for having to live without our sacrosanct red and green chile.  Yes, that’s a painful sacrifice those who serve make for the country we love.  You can bet more New Mexican service men and women will be volunteering for an assignment to Okinawa.  That’s because native New Mexican Andre Park has launched a restaurant offering a taste of New Mexico.  Because customs prohibits fresh red and green chile into the country, Mesilla Kitchen has to use chile in powdered form.  Still, it’s New Mexican cuisine and you’ve got to love that.

ALSO IN ARIZONA:  As if the Valley of the Sun’s summer heat wasn’t scorching, sweltering, scalding, sizzling and stifling enough, a New Mexican restaurant named La Ristra has launched locations in Chandler and Gilbert.  That’s great news to Intel empoyees who travel to Chandler.  According to the restaurant’s website, La Ristra is a “family owned and operated restaurant that serves our community with authentic New Mexican cuisine. Our recipes have been passed down from generation to generation, and we consider it a privilege to offer a unique New Mexican experience to our neighbors.”  La Ristra joins a number of New Mexican restaurants who have made a home in the Phoenix area.

Fried Green Beans from K’Lynn’sin Rio Rancho

ENTERTAINING CUISINE:  On July 6th, New Mexico Entertainment Magazine celebrated its 2nd Annual New Mexico Entertainment Awards Gala. This prestigious event honored the exceptional talents in New Mexico across a variety of entertainment and events industry categories.  Among the honorees were the late Chef Manuel Mancillas who was postumously honored with  the “ICON” award.  Chef Mancillas served as sous chef at Albuquerque’s Hyatt Regency when he passed away in 2023.  Also honored were Chef Mike White of the High Point Grill who was named “Top Chef.”  Albuquerque’s “Top Restaurant” was Nexus.

June, 2024

A La Carte Tamale From Mary & Tito’s

IT’S NOT ONLY GARFIELD WHO LOVES LASAGNA: YouGov, a global online community of 26 million people sharing their opinions daily polled its readers about lasagna.  Respondents to a YouGov survey indicated lasagna has an 83-percent popularity rating.  If you’re among those 83-percent who love lasagna, get yourself to Joe’s Pasta House in Rio Rancho.  Yelp compiled a list of the best lasagna in both the United States and Canada.  The lasagna at Joe’s ranked 20th in the country, making it the only restaurant in New Mexico to make the list.   Regulars at Joe’s (and visitors like my brother-in-law Tim) attest to the greatness of Joe’s lasagna.  It’s created with layers of love.

SANTA FE–DEFINITELY WORTH THE HYPE:  Tastemade, a modern media company that “engages a global audience of more than 300 million monthly viewers on all major digital, mobile, and streaming television platforms” and “creates award-winning video content and original programming in the categories of food, travel and home design” added enchantment to its repertoire when it visited Santa Fe and Madrid eateries in June.  In a program titled “Worth The Hype,” host Frankie Celenza featured Santa Fe’s Plaza Cafe, The Pink Adobe and Sazon as well as Madrid’s Mine Shaft Tavern.  Celenza called his visit a “damn good reminder of how food can be both a bridge to the past and a gateway to new experiences.”

Paneer Karahiwala from Kabab & Curry

TALKING SMACK ABOUT BURRITOS:  In 2023,  Edible New Mexico celebrated the tenth anniversary of the Green Chile Cheeseburger Smackdown.   It’s not only green chile cheeseburgers that are so sacrosanct in the Land of Enchantment.  Burritos are just about as beloved and versatile as our favorite burger.  That’s why a Burrito Smackdown makes great sense…so much sense that the inaugural Burrito Smackdown seems way overdue.  On June 8th, the initial Burrito Smackdown was held in the Village of Los Ranchos.  The event also featured local spirts as part of New Mexico Cocktail Week.  Burritophiles voted for their burrito favorite.  Capitan’s Oso Grill a perennial New Mexico State Fair Cheeseburger Challenge winner, earned the “People’s Choice Award.”  The “Reigning Chomp,” the competition’s top honr went to Villa Myriam Coffee.  There is no indication on VM’s website that burritos are available.  Maybe now they will be.

BETTER THAN A KARATE CHOP: Albuquerque’s Israel Rivera, the award-winning chef-owner of The Shop and Tony Smith, head chef of Sassella in Santa Fe proved their mettle on the June 25 episode of The Food Network’s “Chopped.”   On each episode, four chefs compete in a three-round contest, where they attempt to incorporate unusual combinations of ingredients into dishes that are later evaluated by a panel of three judges.  The Chopped website described the episode as: “Four Southwestern competitors take the reins in the Chopped kitchen, and the baskets are packed full of ingredients from America’s most arid and untamed lands. A cactus product and a comfort food casserole stand out in the appetizer basket, while a spicy surprise forces the competitors to bring the heat in the entrée round. Then, a special flour in the dessert basket could prove to be inspiring or intimidating for the chefs.”  The episode will air again on Tuesday, July 3 so I won’t be providing any spoilers here.

Raspberry Chimichangas from 377 Brewery

NEW MEXICO RESTAURANTS SHUT OUT:  Monday, June 10th saw the presentation of the 2024 James Beard Foundation Restaurant and Chef Awards.  Four New Mexico-based restaurants, chefs and bakers were finalist for awards.  Two of the awards–“Outstanding Restaurant” and “Outstanding Restaurant” are national awards.

  • Santa Fe’s The Compound was a finalist for “Outstanding Restaurant” honors.
  • The Burque Bakehouse, in downtown Albuquerque was a finalist in the “Outstanding Bakery” category.  T
  • Owner-Chef Steve Riley of Albuquerque’s Mesa Provisions, was a finalist in the “Best Chef – Southwest” Category.
  • Also vying for “Best Chef – Southwest” was Eduardo Rodriguez of Santa Fe’s Zacatlan

Although New Mexican restaurants were shut out, having made the finals places them in the top echelon of America’s very best restaurants.  Congratulations!

NEW MEXICO’S MOST “ELITE” DONUTS: I don’t share Anthony Bourdain’s opinion that “There’s really no worse, or lower human being than an elite Yelper,” though I don’t always share their opinions on restaurants.  Yelp Elites tend to be a passionate lot which Bourdain interpreted as “the very picture of entitled, negative energy.”  Whatever!  I appreciate that Yelp Elites share their opinions on various restaurants I may want to visit.  That includes their opiniion on the “best donut shops in every state.”  According to the Elites, New Mexico’s most elite donuts come from Yummy’s Mini Donuts and Ice Cream in Albuquerque.  Now I’ll have to visit.

Lavender-Lemonade and Strawberry Lemonade From Horizon Bagels & Cafe

I WASN’T MISQUOTED:  If you’ve ever wondered what this gastronome looks like, purchase a copy of Albuquerque The Magazine’s June edition.  Your favorite restaurant review blogger (hopefully that’s me) was interviewed by publisher Larryl Lynch in what was more like a conversation by two guys with mutual interests than an interview.  Larryl and his staff are passionate about the city and its dining scene, regularly featuring local eateries and culinary personalities.  Even if you aren’t curious as to what I look like, pick up a copy of the magazine.  It’s been one of my favorite reads since its inception.

May, 2024

Donuts–Turtle, Lemon Coconut, Glazed and Cinnamon Roll–From Craft Donuts in Santa Fe

TRAVEL & LEISURE RECOGNIZES ALBUQUERQUE CHEF:   Travel & Leisure’s review of Hotel Chaco in Albuquerque boasts “This New Mexico hotel helped turn Albuquerque into a hot destination – with world-class art, a rejuvenating spa, and top culinary talent.”  That top culinary talent is Marc Quiñones, “a James Beard nominee and, arguably, the face of modern New Mexican cooking, as executive chef of Level 5, Hotel Chaco’s rooftop restaurant.”   Writer Lois Alter Mark calls dinner at Level 5  “simply a master class in modern New Mexican ranch cuisine.”  In the article Chef Quiñones explains the genesis of the contemporary New Mexican ranch cuisine showcased at the restaurant.  The über chef calls it “a love song to New Mexico.”  It’s a song we should all be singing.  NOTE:  With Chef Quiñones moving on (see next blurb), Hotel Chaco announced the appointment of Sean Sinclair to Executive Chef of Level 5.  Chef Sinclair was formerly chef at Bar Castañeda in Las Vegas (New Mexico)

CHEF MOVING ON: Chef Quiñones shocked the Duke City by announcing he’ll be joining Ex Novo as Director of Culinary Operations and Executive Chef!   Ex Novo will be opening a brand new two-story restaurant in Albuquerque on Central and 7th. This restaurant will serve as a cornerstone for the downtown revitalization project.  The restaurant’s food will celebrate the incredible bounty of meats, vegetables, wild game and spices that New Mexico has to offer. It will will have a Small Plates section as well as a Large Format section which will give diners the opportunity to choose their experience. It will feature some of the chef’s signature dishes over the years as well as some really awesome new plates he can’t wait to reveal soon! Think simply delicious and craveable.  It’s very important to Chef Quiñones that everyone have access to his new restaurant concept. The second floor of the restaurant will be a little bit more intimate/swanky and the menu upstairs will reflect that as well.

Mojarra Frita From the Buffet Table at Los Felix

ENCHANTING BARBECUE IN NEW MEXICO: On my monthly “Red or Green” report, I share compilations of New Mexico’s best foods according to various online sources.  For the most part, the online sources to which I refer are reputable and base their selections of best foods on actual data.  Obviously none of these lists are “official.”  Perhaps the closest to official a best food source can be is Yelp which ranks anointed spots using a number of factors, including the total volume and ratings of reviews mentioning specific keywords.  In May, Yelp published its “Top 100 Barbecue Spots for 2024.”  Two barbecue restaurants I’ve been praising for years made the list.  Unlike other Yelp lists, the Land of Enchantment’s “best” lists, both restaurants ranked near the top.  At number 22 is Mad Jack’s Mountaintop Barbecue in Cloudcroft.  It’s my choice for New Mexico’s best barbecue.  Not far behind–at number 24–is Tucumcari’s very own Watson’s BBQ, another Gil favorite.

NMRA CEO NAMED TO HALL OF FAME: The New Mexico Restaurant Association  CEO Carol Wight was inducted into the New Mexico Tourism Hall of Fame during the 2024 Governor’s Conference on Hospitality & Tourism. Carol has dedicated her life and career to the New Mexico hospitality industry for more than two decades. During that time, she has represented restaurants large and small and promoted hospitality and tourism across the state. We are fortunate to have her and all of us here at NMRA congratulate her on the well-deserved recognition.

Housemade Potato Chips from 2022 James Beard Foundation Finalist La Guelaguetza

FARMINGTON DINER AMONG AMERICA’S BEST:  TJ’s Diner, a Farmington favorite since 1989 will be featured on Americas Best Restaurants.  Filming will take place in November with the segment airing throughout various social media platforms around the first of the year 2025.  America’s Best Restaurant asks viewers to tell them about restaurants  “so good it should be featured on our America’s Best Restaurants Road Show.”  A number of the Land of Enchantment’s “best” restaurants have already been featured.

MOST BEAUTIFUL RESTAURANT IN NEW MEXICO:  PEOPLE Magazine, a publication which celebrates silicon, flaunts fakery and enthralls entertainment seekers crowned fifty restaurants as America’s most beautiful.  The editors of OpenTable compiled the list to celebrate PEOPLE’s 50th anniversary.  New Mexico’s most beautiful restaurant is Skyfire within Bishop’s Lodge.  Skyfire’s is described by OpenTable as “Cuisine that celebrates storied, southwestern traditions. SkyFire at Bishop’s Lodge invites you to slow down, take in the panoramic views of the Tesuque Valley and experience the diverse, rich ingredients and textures of the Land of Enchantment.”

Birria Taco From Birrieria Y Tacos Carlos (Photo Courtesy of BOTVOLR)

NEW MEXICO’S BEST VALUE FOR YOUR BUCK:  I’ve received quite a bit of criticism for my chiding the “build back better economy” and its impact on American diners, particularly those who struggle to make ends meet.  According to the Bureau of Labor Statistics, in the past three years, food prices increased by 20.3%.  As someone who dines out often, I’ve seen restaurant costs rise more than 100% in some cases.  A decade ago who would have thought a burger, fries and a beverage would run you $25 or more?  So, when LoveFood published an article listing “Every State’s Best Value for Money Restaurant That’s Worth Every Dime,” I had to pay close attention.  LoveFood’s choice for New Mexico is Rancho De Chimayo.  Here’s what the site had to say: “Run by Mrs J, as she’s known by the locals, Rancho de Chimayó may just be New Mexico’s most legendary restaurant, having been recognized by the James Beard Foundation and named a Culinary Treasure by the state. Loved for its genuine hospitality and fantastic food for inexpensive prices, it’s definitely a Chimayó must-visit. Don’t miss the signature dishes – spicy guacamole, flautas, and corn enchiladas.”

April, 2024

Magnificent Mole Enchiladas From La Guelaguetza, a 2022 James Beard Foundation “Best Chef – Southwest” Semifinalist

JAMES BEARD FOUNDATION (JBF) HONORS NEW MEXICO RESTAURANTS, BAKERS AND CHEFS:  Four New Mexico-based restaurants, chefs and bakers are finalist for James Beard Foundation awards.  Two of the awards–“Outstanding Restaurant” and “Outstanding Restaurant” are national awards.

  • Santa Fe’s The Compound is a finalist for “Outstanding Restaurant” honors.  Welcoming guests since 1966, The Compound is on every local’s short list as New Mexico’s best restaurant.  Could it also be the nation’s most outstanding restaurant.  One Thrilling blogger thinks it just might be.
  • The Burque Bakehouse, ensconced in downtown Albuquerque is a finalist in the “Outstanding Bakery” category.  The bustling bakery offers an array of baked goods and pastries unlike any bakery in New Mexico.  The best thing about waking up is something–anything–from the Burque Bakehouse.
  • Owner-Chef Steve Riley of Albuquerque’s Mesa Provisions, a Nob Hill staple, is a finalist in the “Best Chef – Southwest” Category.  The peripatetic chef launched his restaurant in 2021, but has been plying his craft impeccably for more than two decades.  His constantly changing menu reflects New Mexico’s varied seasons.
  • Also vying for “Best Chef – Southwest” is Eduardo Rodriguez of Santa Fe’s Zacatlan, a fabulous Mexican restaurant which strives to honor the traditions of Mexico while bringing in new flavors that marry Southwestern and Mexican influences.

RECOGNIZING WORK IN ELIMINATING FOOD INSECURITY: Helga Garcia-Garza, the executive director of Agri-Cultura Network, a farmer-owned cooperative, and its community-supported agricultural program, La Cosecha CSA, will be awarded the 2024 James Beard Foundation Leadership Award under the “food security and access” category.  Her  work through the South Valley Albuquerque-based organization has enabled hundreds of low-income families and individuals to access fresh and local produce using SNAP funds. She also oversees the distribution of produce and meat to senior nutrition sites, early childhood centers, the public education department, charter schools, hospitals, and clinics across the state.  Garcia-Garza will travel to Chicago in June to receive the award from the James Beard Foundation.

Green Chile Apple Pie with a Scoop of Cinnamon Ice Cream From The Range in Bernalillo

MORE JAMES BEARD CONNECTIONS: In 2012, Saveur declared “The award for most far-flung modernist cuisine may go to chef Rob Connoley of the Curious Kumquat in Silver City, New Mexico.”   That cuisine was described as “modernist foraged cuisine” and ” local foods with an eye on historic Apache diets.”  As an essayist of New Mexico’s culinary condition, one of my biggest regrets is not having visited Curious Kumquat before it shuttered its doors in 2016.   Although the Curious Kumquat may be no more, Chef Connoley continues to wow diners.  Now plying his craft in St. Louis, Missouri, Chef Connoley was named a finalist in the James Beard Foundation’s “Best Chef – Midwest in 2024.  The innovative chef had previously been named a “Best Chef: Midwest” semifinalist in 2022 and 2023, both for his Gate City restaurant Bulrush.  In 2014 while leading Curious Kumquat, Chef Connoley also earned a semifinalist nod from the James Beard Foundation as “Best Chef – Southwest.”

NEW MEXICO’S BEST “HOLE-IN-THE-WALL FOR “MEXICAN FOOD:”  Cheapism began its feature of the “best hole-in-the-wall Mexican restaurants in America” with “Money can’t buy happiness, but it can get you fajitas, tacos and enchiladas. Let’s not forget about margaritas!  That clever line is the only thing about the article I liked.  Okay, I also liked the choice of   Perea’s New Mexican Restaurant as New Mexico’s selection.  What I didn’t like is the lazy journalism practiced by much of the national media.  Here’s an example: “New Mexico has their own regional Mexican-derived dishes, including the famous red and green chile. Perea’s has both in abundance, in a no-frills diner atmosphere that serves only breakfast and lunch. It’s been open and family operated since 1981.”  New Mexico is NOT a region of Mexico and our cuisine is entirely distinct.

Lobster & Artichoke Benedict from Dave’s High Desert Grill (Photo Courtesy of Lynn Garner)

NEW MEXICO’S BEST RESTAURANT SERVING AMERICAN CLASSICS:  Don’t you just love the website called “Love Food.”  In two simple words it expresses the sentiment many of us feel.  We don’t just eat to live, we live to eat.  Love Food recently compiled a list of “The Best Restaurants Serving American Classics in Every State.”   You’ve got to love the fact that Love Food didn’t shy away from the list including New Mexican cuisine.  The site gave plenty of love to Nexus Brewery,  its choice for the Land of Enchantment.  Here’s what Love Food had to say: Unfussy and cool, Nexus Brewery dishes up some fantastic, unpretentious food at its two Albuquerque locations. The restaurant consistently receives rave reviews for the tasty food on its menu, which has a certain New Mexican flair. There are nachos covered in red or green chile, Cajun chicken chicharrones, and a soul food menu with chicken and waffles, hot chicken, and fried fish, as well as red beans and rice with hot sausage.”  Lastly, you’ve got to love a site that spells “chile” correctly (Sorry, Ruben).

ALBUQUERQUE’S THE FARMACY MAKES YELP’S TOP 100 BRUNCH LIST FOR 2024:  “Brunch is such an odd thing,” according to author Brian South.  “It was created by fat, lazy people who were too lazy to wake up at a reasonable hour and too fat to wait until the next proper time for dining.”  Aargh!  And we thought brunch was a a late morning culinary exploration of sweet and savory delights.  Whatever brunch may be, there’s no denying Americans love it.  Using its ubiquitous database, Yelp compiled a list of the “Top 100 Brunch Spots of 2004.”  Only one restaurant from New Mexico made the list, but it’s a great one.  Albuquerque’s The Farmacy ranked 95th on Yelp’s list, but it’s number one in the hearts of brunch lovers in New Mexico.

March, 2024

Tres Colores from Hot Tamales in Rio Rancho

REPRESESENTING THE LAND OF ENCHANTMENT THE RIGHT WAY:  Chef Marc Quiñones of Level Five Rooftop Restaurant at Hotel Chaco was so ubiquitous during the month of March that perhaps the month should be redesignated “Marc” instead of “March.”  First the James Beard Foundation “Best Chef – Southwest” Semifinalist took his talents to New York to compete in the season 36 premier of Beat Bobby Flay, one of the Food Network’s flagship programs.   In a battle of mentor versus mentee, Chef Quiñones first had to dispatch dear friend and fellow Duke City chef Bryan Romero to earn an opportunity to compete against Chef Flay.   Selecting tostones (fried green plantains) as the ingredient with which to do battle, Chef Quiñones accorded himself like the champion he is.  He may not have won the battle (judged by Chef Flay friends), but his display of class and dignity showed him to be a true winner.

UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL WITH CHEF QUIÑONES:  In a revealing interview, Chef Quiñones shared his passions with New Mexico Entertainment Magazine.  Considering his pursuit of perfection in the kitchen, you might think Chef Quiñones is singularly focused on food.  In the interview, Chef Quiñones shared his passion for his family.  I’s obvious he’s not only a world-class chef, but a world-class father and husband.  The interview delves into his career path and how New Mexico is the catalyst behind his development as a chef.   In an interview with KOB TV, Chef Quiñones reiterated his love for the Land of Enchantment: “I might be from New York, but New Mexico made me the chef that I am today. And I’m really proud of that.”  He emphasized that family comes first in his life.  Chef Quiñones certainly has his priorities right!

Our Friend John Martin Enjoys A Green Chile Cheeseburger from Albuquerque City Limits

NEW MEXICO’S BEST BAGEL SHOP: In February, 2024, Tasting Table used online reviews calculated on a five-point scale to find the best bagel shop in every state.   The people’s choice according to public sourcing sites was Kaufman’s Coffee & Bagels.  Here’s what Tasting Table had to say:  “Kaufman’s Coffee & Bagels is a small spot located right off historic Route 66. It’s a relatively small, tranquil bagel destination — but it goes big on the flavors and infuses regional ingredients into its bagel recipe. Take, for example, the blue corn or red chile bagels, which can be served with your choice of cream cheese. Or try the Albuquerque Turkey topped with turkey, bacon, green chile, and tomato and served on your choice of bagel. Customers appreciate the quality of the bagels and the balance of flavors on even the spiciest options.

THREE BEST MEXICAN RESTAURANTS IN ALBUQUERQUE:  Similar to salsa made in New York City, lists purporting to tell readers what the Land of Enchantment’s best restaurants are usually have little credibility.  That’s especially true when those compilations don’t know the difference between Mexican and New Mexican cuisine.  The most recent culprit to make that mistake was Our Big Adventure which put together its list of the “Best Mexican Restaurants in Albuquerque.”   It’s hard to complain too vociferously about the three restaurants–Albuquerque City Limits, Cocina Azul and Perea’s New Mexican Restaurant–being named the Duke City’s best, but allow me to whine about the copious mischaracterizations of New Mexican cuisine throughout the feature:   “We delve into the heart of the city’s culinary landscape to uncover the 3 best Mexican restaurants in Albuquerque. These Mexican restaurants in Albuquerque represent just a glimpse into the rich tapestry of Mexican culture that thrives in this southwestern hub. Welcome to Albuquerque, where the vibrant flavors of Mexican cuisine come to life in a myriad of Mexican restaurants in Albuquerque.”

Chicken Fried Steak and Pancakes from Jimmy’s Cafe (Photo Courtesy of Bruce “Sr Plata” Silver)

WHY SANTA FE SHOULD BE YOUR NEXT CULINARY GETAWAY:  Food & Wine acknowledges: “In Santa Fe, they’re cooking up something different. Since its founding by the Spanish in 1610, Santa Fe has always marched to the beat of its own drum — from its signature adobe architecture to its creative community of artists and visionaries. A diverse melting pot of multicultural influences, “The City Different” has forged an identity like no place else, and one of the best ways to experience it is through the local food scene.”  In a feature titled “Why Santa Fe Should Be Your Next Culiary Getaway”  Food & Wine lists some of the City Different’s best getaway destinations, a melange of food trucks, fine dining Meccas and casual eateries including El Chile Toreado, Zacatlan and Jambo.

MUST TRY PIE:  In honor of Pi Day, Yelp released its list of “50 states, 50 pies you need to try,” Some of those pies are not traditional dessert pies. One example of a savory pie to try in New Mexico is the frito pie from Albuquerque’s Pop Fizz.  This is a Frito Pie in which the chile actually has a bite, an endorphin-laden, tongue-tingling, taste bud pleasing bite. Chile, not lettuce and tomato, is the prevalent flavor…but it’s not solely piquant. It’s a delicious, rich red chile. The Fritos provide a salty counterbalance and crunchy textural foil to the shredded beef. This top-tier Frito pie evinces the kitchen skills of ice cream makers who can actually cook, too.

Spicy Rigatoni From Saggio’s Uptown

BEST PLACES TO EAT IN ALBUQUERQUE:  AFAR, an “award-winning travel media brand that makes a positive impact on the world through high-quality storytelling that inspires, empowers, and enriches travelers who care”  recognizes that Albuquerque is “a lot more than chilelandia.”   Its compilation of “The Best Places to Eat and Drink in Albuquerque” lists a number of dishes in which chile is chief in the dish’s flavor profile.

ALBUQUERQUE’S BEST PLACE TO EAT…IN NEW YORK:  Chef Marc Quiñones and his star protege (a formidable chef in his own right) Richard Padilla have become ambassadors for the Land of Enchantment.  In collaboration with Visit Albuquerque and Electric Playhouse, the dynamic duo spent three days in New York City where they regaled Gotham City’s press with the story of Albuquerque and blew them away during immersive luncheons and dinners featuring Modern New Mexican Ranch Cuisine.  This fabulous cuisine is available at Albuquerque’s Level 5 Rooftop Restaurant.   I hope to visit Chef Quiñones very soon.

FEBRUARY, 2024

Winter Brussels Salad From The Grove

THE SOUPER BOWL TAYLOR SWIFT SHOULD HAVE ATTENDED:  The Roadrunner Food Bank’s annual Souper Bowl, a soup and dessert sampling fundraising event, was held on the Saturday (February 3) preceding some ballyhooed Taylor Swift gabfest…that kept getting interrupted for a professional football game.  The sold-out event provided live entertainment, a diverse silent auction, samples of soups and desserts from great local eateries and the opportunity to cast a vote for their favorites.

People’s Choice Soup
1st Place – 2024 Souper Bowl Champion: Shamrock Foods:  Okinawan Sweet Potato with Crispy Bacon
2nd Place – Fuego 505: White Tomato Soup with Bacon, Basil and Green Chile
3rd Place – Mas Tapas Y Vino: Green Chile Chicken Soup

Critic’s Choice Soup
1st Place – Larry McGoldrick Award:  Mas Tapas Y Vino – Green Chile Chicken Soup
2nd Place – Slate Street Billiards: Green Chile Cheeseburger Soup
3rd Place – El Patron: Green Chile Pork

People’s Choice Vegetarian Soup
1st Place – Old Town Catering: Roasted Cauliflower Apple Soup
2nd Place – Canyon Club at Four Hills: Lavender Corn Bisque
3rd Place – Twenty Two (Hilton Garden Inn/Homewood Suites Downtown): Mexican Elote Bisque

People’s Choice Dessert
1st Place – Special Touch Catering: Hungarian Goulash
2nd Place – Nothing Bundt Cakes:
3rd Place – Baked By Christiana:
Cajun Chicken Chicharrones From Nexus Brewery

TEN YEARS OF DOING BUSINESS THE RIGHT WAY:  Congratulations to M’tucci’s, which not only celebrated its 10th anniversary, but over the course of those ten years implemented several impactful initiatives.  Those included scholastic ventures with Rio Rancho High School, a tutoring program, a four-day work week for salaried employees and, to wrap up the holiday season, an employee-optional health insurance package. These important developments, along with a long history of supporting the communities and organizations which make New Mexico a wonderful place to live, clearly impressed judges and students of the Rust Award for Excellence in Ethical Business Practiceby a For-Profit Business.  M’tucci’s won the Medium category.

M’TUCCI’S FOUNDER PASSES AWAY:  Shortly after M’Tucci’s celebrated its tenth anniversary and received the coveted Rust Award, co-founder (along with his wife Katie Gardner and business partner John Haas) Jeff Siegel passed away after a courageous six-year battle with leukemia.  Jeff was a visionary, pioneering innovative restaurant concepts and commitment to community and employees.  The values instilled in the company—passion for food, commitment to employees, and community engagement—are a lasting testament to his vision. Under the stewardship of stalwart leaders Jeff coached and developed,  his legacy will continue. Continuous improvement  and staying true to the core values that made the restaurants a beloved part of the Albuquerque community will remain.

Sourdough Bread with Piñon and Cheese from Burque Bakehouse

LEGENDARY OWL CAFE OWNER PASSES AWAY:  The obituary for Rowena Baca reads in part “She was known for her larger-than-life presence and a heart of gold that welcomed all with open arms.”  In 2018, Rowena and her husband Adolfo were honored by the New Mexico Restaurant Association (NMRA) as Restaurateurs of the Year, commending their exceptional embodiment of entrepreneurship, community service, and exceptional hospitality.  She was a peripatetic presence at The Owl, a smiling face greeting one and all.

MEET ALBUQUERQUE’S PREMIER CELEBRITY CHEF:  Chef Marc Quiñones, a 2024 James Beard “Best Chef – Southwest” semifinalist will tell you he may not have been born in the Land of Enchantment, but New Mexico has made him the chef and person he is.  Chef Marc was a recent guest on Mayor Tim Keller’s “One ABQ & You” podcast where the Mayor praised the accomplished chef for all he’s done to grow Albuquerque’s fame as a culinary destination.  Typical of Chef Marc’s self-effacing nature, he directed credit to other Duke City Chefs–Jennifer James, Steve Riley, Marie Yniguez and others–for their talent and innovativeness.  The chef  also explained Level 5’s “New Mexico Ranch” cuisine concept, elaborating on New Mexico’s historical reliance on the bounty of the earth and wildlife.

Quesabirria Tacos from Ramona’s Mexican Cafe (Photo Courtesy of John Martin )

ALBUQUERQUE’S HIGHEST RATED MEXICAN RESTAURANTS:  Stacker recognizes that “Mexico has 32 distinct regional styles of cooking, and thanks to immigrant chefs and the rise of promising culinarians of Mexican descent looking to share their signature dishes, Indigenous foodways, and ingredients from various regions, diners are reframing their idea of “Mexican food.”  Many of those regional styles are noted in Stacker’s list of Albuquerque’s highest rated Mexican restaurants.  Using Yelp data, Stacker’s compilation included only a few restaurants that arguably are “New Mexican” more than they are “Mexican.”  It’s an interesting list–particularly because its highest rated “restaurant” isn’t a restaurant at all.

ALBUQUERQUE: ONE OF AMERICA’S BEST CITIES FOR PIZZA:  Yeah, I did a double-take, too.  I’ve always thought of Albuquerque as a fair to good pizza city with only a handful of restaurants good enough to compete in larger metropolitan areas.  Apparently Google users think otherwise.  Using average Google review scores, Pizzello compiled a list of the “top 250 cities in America for the best pizzerias.”   Not surprisingly, New York City was the highest ranked city followed by Tulsa (Tulsa???).  Albuquerque ranked tenth.  Pizzello noted “Known for its rich cultural cooking, Albuquerque’s pizzerias incorporate the bold flavors and spices New Mexico is famous for, giving their pizzas a distinctive, flavorful kick.”

Lotaburger Committed Unpardonable Act of Not Giving Me the Double Portion  I Ordered of Green Chile on This Burger

NOT ACCORDING TO YELP:  For a city ranked as America’s tenth best city for best pizzerias by Pizzello, Albuquerque didn’t get much respect from Yelp.  In its compilation of America’s “top 100 pizza spots” for 2024 (according to Yelp Elites),  not a single Duke City pizzeria made the list.  Not one, zero, zilch, zip.  It goes to show the accuracy of Benjamin Disraeli’s quote “There are three kinds of lies: lies, damned lies, and statistics.”    What matters most is what individuals think is the best, their favorite.

MOST ROMANTIC RESTAURANT:  Open Table believes “food is its own love language, but when it’s served in a cozy room or a candlelit booth? Guaranteed fireworks.”  Analyzing over 12-million diner reviews and metrics,  compiled a list of restaurants that had diners swooning.  Their list of the Top 100 Romantic Restaurants in the US. was released just before Valentine’s Day.  New Mexico’s most romantic restaurant is Santa Fe’s legendary Geronimo.

Quesabirria Tacos From La Sienita. Photo Courtesy of Lynn Garner

WHERE TO EAT, SLEEP AND PLAY IN SANTA FE:  TravelAge West recognizes that “today’s Santa Fe retains all the charm of the past, newness abounds in 2024 in this historic city, from artwork and crafts by young makers committed to sustainability and modern desert-chic lodging and retail experiences to internationally influenced and Indigenous-forward cuisine.”  In profiling the City Different, the online travel site compiled a list of where to eat, sleep and play.  It’s not a compilation of the “usual suspects,” but a forward-thinking list that includes such stalwart new restaurants as Alkeme, a 2024 semifinalist for the James Beard Foundation’s “Best New Restaurant” honor.

GROCERY COSTS IN NEW MEXICO AMONG THE COUNTRY’S HIGHEST:   HealthAdvisor.com, a financial and health website, reported  New Mexico was in the Top 10 in the U.S. for average household dollars spent on groceries each week.  According to the study New Mexicans paid an average of $286.39 a week–well above the national average of $270.21.  California (whose politics New Mexico legislatures and The Governator increasingly seem to emulate) led all states with prices averaging $297.72 a week.

January, 2024

James Beard Foundation “Best New Restaurant” Semifinalist Hue-Chan Karels, Chef-Owner of Alkeme in Santa Fe

JAMES BEARD SEMI-FINALISTS ANNOUNCED:  The Land of Enchantment is very well represented among semi-finalists in several categories for the James Beard Foundation awards for 2024. The James Beard Awards, often likened to the “Academy Awards for food” honor those who are creating exceptional food, food media content and better food systems, while demonstrating a commitment to racial and gender equity, community, sustainability and a culture in which all can thrive.  Six New Mexico-based chefs are semifinalists for the award of Best Chef: Southwest:

Annamaria Brezna O’Brien from Dolina Cafe and Bakery in Santa Fe.
Eduardo Rodriguez of Zacatlan in Santa Fe
Christopher Bethoney from Campo at Los Poblanos in Albuquerque
Marc Quiñones from Level 5 in Albuquerque
Steve Riley from Mesa Provisions in Albuquerque
Josefina Garcilazo of Chope’s in La Mesa

Semifinalists  in other categories include:

Compound in Santa Fe for Outstanding Restaurant
Alkeme in Santa Fe for Best New Restaurant
Burque Bakehouse in Albuquerque for outstanding bakery
Bow & Arrow Brewing Company in Albuquerque for outstanding bar

Note:  Links to the thrilling (and filling) restaurant semifinalists I’ve reviewed during the past year are provided above.  You can bet I’ll probably be visiting the other restaurants soon.

Chef Marc Quinones of Albuquerque’s Level 5 is a Semifinalist for the James Beard Foundation’s “Best Chef – Southwest” Award for 2024

FACT-CHECKING THE GOVERNOR’S STATE OF THE STATE SPEECH: Shortly after Governor Michelle Lujan Grisham’s State of the State speech, KOAT TV Channel 7 did some fact-checking to determine if the governor exaggerated facts.  It prompted me to do my own fact-checking.  It’s obvious that our governor is immensely proud of the state she leads (and rightfully so), but in terms of New Mexico’s culinary accomplishments, one statement was “inaccurate.”  The governor claimed “New Mexico is the state that invented the breakfast burrito, the green chile cheeseburger, the Flamin’ Hot Cheeto and the Frito Pie?”  She was half right.  The Flamin’ Hot Cheeto was invented in California and the Frito Pie was invented in Texas.  In the grand scheme of things, it probably doesn’t matter as much who invented these foods, but how they’re used.  That’s where New Mexico’s restaurants stand out.

MOST EXPENSIVE STATES TO OPEN A NEW RESTAURANT:  A study by Restaurant Study analyzed for each state the various costs that an entrepreneur would need to spend in one year to run a restaurant–from the rent of a commercial space to licences such as a Food Service Permit and a Liquor License–to discover in which state it would be the most expensive.  Not surprisingly the most expensive state to run a restaurant was California followed by New York.  Surprisingly, two of the most expensive states are our neighbors: Colorado (3rd) and Arizona (5th).  New Mexico ranked as the 8th most expensive state to run a restaurant.  For once we’d love to rank behind Mississippi and Arkansas, both of which are far less expensive.

Chef Steve Riley of Albuquerque’s Mesa Provisions is a James Beard Foundation Semifinalist for “Best Chef-Southwest”

SANTA FE SOUPER BOWL BRINGS COMFORT TO MANY:  According to the great composer Ludwig Van Beethoven “only the pure in heart can make a good soup.”  There were many pure hearted chefs at The Food Depot’s 2024 Souper Bowl in Santa Fe.  Chef Ahmed Obo of  Jambo reigned soupreme with a  Roast Beet and Ginger Coconut Bisque which secured the top spot by earning the most votes at the event, claiming both the titles of Best Soup in Santa Fe and Best Vegetarian Soup.  Other Souper Bowl 2024 victors

Best Cream: Tibet Kitchen’s Corn Chowder by Chef Rodolfo Flores
Best Savory: Flying Tortilla’s Savory Green Chile Clam Chowder by Chef Carlos Ruvalcaba
Best Seafood: Boxcar Santa Fe’s New England Shrimp Chowder with Green Chile Hush Puppie by Chef Francisco Delgado

Twenty-four chefs competed in the event, the largest yearly community event for The Food Depot of New Mexico. The fundraiser continues to grow and was sold out for the second year, drawing approximately 1,700 people and raising at least $100,000 for the organization. That can fund about 400,000 meals for people across Northern New Mexico, according to a Food Depot spokeswoman.

“AMERICA’S BEST RESTAURANTS” SHOWCASES FOUR IN THE LAND OF ENCHANTMENT:  Since most of us are perpetually online catching up on our social media addictions, there’s finally something meaty to watch.  It’s an online roadshow called “America’s Best Restaurants” and it celebrates independently owned eateries.  Five restaurants within the sacred borders of the Land of Enchantment were showcased at the end of January.  To be selected for the show, restaurants can apply for themselves, or they can be recommended through customer nominations. Once the episode is completed, it will be announced and eventually aired on ABR’s social media channels – FacebookInstagram, and YouTube.  First to be featured was Moriarty’s Buttercrust Pizza.

Behemoth Burrito from La Sirenita in Albuquerque (Photo Courtesy of John Martin)

NEW MEXICO’S FAVORITE HOT SAUCE:  Your fearless blogger doesn’t only call out our governor.  I’m especially fond of pointing out click bait sites that purport to tout New Mexico’s “best” or “favorite,” particularly when they do so without real tangible data. In honor of National Hot Sauce Day on Jan. 22, the folks at Instacart (an online grocery platform) analyzed purchase data to reveal Americans’ hot sauce preferences.  According to Instacart, the Land of Enchantment’s favorite hot sauce is Monroe’s.  New Mexico’s favorite hot sauce was the hottest hot sauce rated, edging out Colorado.

ARIZONA SAYS “NO MAS” TO NEW MEXICAN RESTAURANT:   It’s often been said that one person’s treasure is another person’s trash.   That aphorism applies to states and restaurants, too.  In 2022, Little Anita’s, a New Mexico staple with satellites in Colorado, expanded into Phoenix.  Its first venture in the Valley of the Sun was in Chandler where an Intel plant is often visited by New Mexicans.  Its second Arizona restaurant was in Phoenix.  The advent of a new year saw the Phoenix location close.  Where once Colorado had four Little Anita’s restaurants, only one remains.   The forty-year-old restaurant has also seen a third of its restaurants closed within New Mexico.  Little Anita’s is now down to six locations.

Green Chile Cheeseburger and Fries from the Ironwood Kitchen in Rio Rancho (Photo Courtesy of Bill Resnik)

SOUP TO SOOTHE THE SOUL:  German actress Marlene Dietrich believed: “Soup not only warms you and is easy to swallow and to digest, it also creates the illusion in the back of your mind that Mother is there.  For many of us, thoughts of mother and of soup are inextricably tied, calling to mind comforting warmth and love. Yelp recently compiled a list of the highest-rated soup spots in each U.S. state.  New Mexico’s most slurp-worthy soup comes from Santa Fe’s Sazon where Chef Fernando Olea prepares “Sopa De Amor” as well as your mother prepared her homemade soup.

ALBUQUERQUE’S MOST “COMMON” CUISINES: Stacker, which purports to “provide publishers with engaging, data-driven stories” used Yelp data to compile a list of the seventeen most common cuisines in Albuquerque.  In this case “common” being synonymous with “prevalent” not “ordinary.”  According to Stacker, the Duke City’s most common cuisine is Mexican with some 360 restaurants.  There was no listing for “New Mexican” restaurants which means our state’s sacrosanct cuisine was lumped in with Mexican cuisine.  It’s an interesting list.

“Deconstructed” NM Bagel Sandwich From Hannah & Nate’s in Corrales

DO ALASKA AND OREGON REALLY HAVE BETTER TACOS THAN NEW MEXICO?:  If you read Yelp’s list of the “Best Tacos in the US” you’ll probably have to do a double-take.  States such as Alaska, Oregon, Washington and Nevada each have tacos ranked among the top ten across the fruited plain.  It wasn’t that long ago denizens of those states could only find tacos at Taco Bell.  Meanwhile, only ONE New Mexican taqueria–La Reforma Brewery in Albuquerque–made the list and it was only ranked 81st.   Could it be self-effacing New Mexicans are too modest to shout from the rooftops about the greatness of our tacos or could our tacos really be that mediocre?  Nah, we just don’t share taco intelligence with Yelp.

ONE IS THE LONELIEST NUMBER:   One!  That’s the number of New Mexico’s retaurants which made it to Yelp’s Top 100 Places to Eat in the USfor 2024.  Aargh!  One!  Let that sink in.  One is the same number of playoff games the Dallas Cowboys played in 2023.  One isn’t just an odd number, it’s odd that such a culinary hotbed as New Mexico could do so poorly.   It could be argued that at the Land of Enchantment’s sole choice–The St. James Tearoom— eating is secondary.   Much as I appreciate Yelp, my favorite public sourced review engine, some Yelpers are far too tough on restaurants that are trying their darnedest.  Rating a restaurant one star because a place setting didn’t include a fork, for example,  is petty and childish.

Baklava from Yanni’s Mediterranean in Albuquerque – Some of What We’ll Miss Most From the Now Shuttered Greek Restaurant

BEST RESTAURANT IN NEW MEXICO LOCATED IN A SMALL TOWN:  Love Food, a “dynamic (and delicious) testament to the passion of loving food,” knows:  “There’s no denying that America’s biggest cities have foodie clout. But venture beyond the buzzing urban hubs – to the sticks, the suburbs, and the small towns – and you’ll find plenty of gourmet surprise.” Love Food explains: “Wherever you go in the Land of Enchantment, you’ll find myriad great Mexican-inspired restaurants – and you needn’t stick to bigger cities like Santa Fe. Taos, whose population numbers less than 7,000, sure punches above its weight when it comes to top gourmet destinations. Among them is fuss-free La Cueva Cafe, a dinky Pueblo-style restaurant serving tacos, enchiladas, burritos, and chimichangas.”

BEST BURGERS IN NEW MEXICO:  The East Coast Traveler, an online site which seems to have New Mexico’s enchanted lay of the land compiled a list of the best burgers in New Mexico.  Ordinarily I would dismiss this list as more clickbait from some source who doesn’t know New Mexico from Old Mexico, but this list actually lists several good choices.  Among the best burgers on the list are some you might call “usual suspects” (albeit all worthy of honors):  Bobcat Bite (now Jambo Bobcat Bite), Sparky’s in Hatch and the Buckhorn Tavern in San Antonio.  The list reminded me that we’re overdue for a visit to Spinn’s Burgers & Beer in Albuquerque which serves one of the state’s very best green chile cheeseburgers.  We’re also overdue for a visit to two other burger emporiums on the list: Hall of Flame Burgers in Ruidoso and Hometown Burger in Farmington.

3 thoughts on “Red and Green: New Mexico’s Culinary Scene is on Fire: November, 2024

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