La Zenita – Albuquerque, New Mexico

In his immortal play Romeo and Juliet, William Shakespeare used two lines to convey that the naming of things is irrelevant: “What’s in a name? That which we call a rose by any other name would smell just as sweet.”   My friends Bruce and Loren Plata like to remind me that in Hebrew, the name “Gil” represents a “small goat,” an animal that definitely doesn’t smell quite as fragrant as a rose.  My retort, of course, is that “goat” is an acronym for “greatest of all time.”  So, relevant or not, names do have meanings and can provide a lifetime of notoriety.   Most of us just hope our names aren’t something that can be made fun of.

In Hebrew, the name “Zenita” means “gift of God.” Now, that’s one lofty name to aspire to.  Someone christened with that name would probably be expected to have pretty divine qualities. A restaurant bearing that name might be expected to serve food that’s heavenly. No, not manna and quail, but food that’s delicious and filling.  When I asked about the genesis of the name, the restaurant’s personable owner explained that the name is a play on two words.  First, it’s a play on “Zenaida,” her name.  Second, it’s a play on “cena,” the Spanish word for dinner.

You’ll find La Zenita by turning north on 1st Street from Route 66 toward the convention center.  To your immediate right you’ll espy the One Central ABQ building, a sprawling west-facing edifice with large glass windows that present some of the most enchanting views of Albuquerque’s downtown high-rises.  A wrapped parking structure includes 423 covered, secure spaces.  It’s a short walk to the restaurant.   If you had the great fortune of frequenting Urban Taqueria and later Tika Hut, you’ll be familiar with the location.

You’ll also be acquainted with the colorful mural on the wall.  It’s the restaurant’s cynosure an intriguing image that pays tribute to the extraordinary and constantly evolving history of Mexican cuisine.   The mural depicts the mesmerizing countenance of a beautiful indigenous maiden, maybe even the infamous Malinche herself.  Immediately below the maiden is a Muslim Dhow sailing the azure waters of the ancient world.  The mural was commissioned when the name on the restaurant’s marquee read “Urban Taqueria.”   It’s an evocative spray-painted masterpiece that should inspire contemplation and discussion.

Despite the ostentatious mural, La Zenita is one of the most humble Mexican restaurants you’ll find in Albuquerque.  In that respect, it’s much like its owner.  Zenaida is originally from Zacatecas where she grew up on a small ranch in which her family grew much of the food they ate.  There were no sprawling grocery stores in her village so most meals were simple fare.  She learned to cook at her mother’s side and has imparted the value of hard work to her own children. La Zenita’s menu provides a glance into contemporary simple fare.  It’s good enough to have garnered the attention of my friend Michael Gonzales, operating partner of Rio Rancho’s Cafe Bella.  When Michael recommends a restaurant, you can bet it’s going to be good.

Zenaida told me the most popular dish on the menu are the street tacos (barbacoa, al pastor, asada, chicken, ground beef, chorizo, birria, chicharron) which late-night downtown party-goers consume with gusto.  She pointed to a large pot simmering on the stove.  The night before that pot was full of posole which guests polished off.  The menu also includes burritos, quesadillas, tamales, tortas, gorditas, Frito pie and burgers.  For diners who lack tolerance for the hot stuff, there’s French toast, pancakes, omelets, hot dogs and even a pretty good club sandwich.

Zenaida also pointed out a refrigerator which she indicated was usually brimming with desserts: empanadas, coconut jello, cake and more.  Because the refrigerator was on the blink, she made biscochitos which were more than passable.  Over the Christmas season she offers tamales by the dozen.  Her tamale repertoire includes fruit-filled tamales brimming with sweet potatoes, pineapple and more.  Much as we were anxious to sample Zenita’s savory fare, we had hoped to sample some of the desserts which are gaining a reputation around savvy diners.

Though we both had other entrees in mind, we had to sample at least one of the tacos.  La Zenita is a rarity in that it offers tacos al pastor with and without pineapple.  For us, “with” is a no-brainer.  The contrast of sweet pineapple and savory pork is a winner (even on Hawaiian pizza).  We weren’t quite as fond of the size of the corn tortillas on which the pork is generously piled.  Less than full-sized tortillas tend to provide no more than three or four bites worth.  No matter how good such tacos might be, we invariably want more.  Chopped onions, cilantro and a green chile salsa are provided on the side.  Zenaida told us the birria tacos (made with beef) are especially popular.

My quest continues for a torta de barbacoa nearly as good as the transformative torta offered by No Te Rajes, the exceptional Rio Rancho food truck.  Zenita’s version, while good, lacked the richness and moistness of my favorite torta de barbacoa.  Garnished with lettuce, tomato and avocado and served with a side of French fries, the torta was a handful.  The bolillo bread on which the torta was constructed was soft and pliable.  It fell apart easily, but that’s what forks are for.  The fries are out-of-a-bag but improved vastly with the salsa.

My Kim may be the only person in New Mexico who would visit a Mexican restaurant and order a club sandwich (ham, bacon, tomato, lettuce, mayo on toasted white bread). Club sandwiches gained popularity after being served at the World’s Fair in 1904.  What sandwich aficionados consider the cornerstone of a club sandwich is its double-decker appearance: the third slice of bread in the middle gives the illusion of two sandwiches stacked on top of each other.   On a plate it may look like a “Dagwood sandwich,” but you really don’t need a Guy Fieri-sized mouth to eat one.  When made well, it’s delicious simplicity.  Zenaida makes a great club sandwich!

So, what’s in a name?  Should you happen upon La Zenita, you can be assured the name stands for a family owned-and-operated gem that offers simple, but delicious fare.

La Zenita
1 Central Ave NW #B
Albuquerque, New Mexico
(505) 910-0273
Website |
LATEST VISIT: 10 August 2024
# OF VISITS : 1
RATING: N/R
COST: $$
BEST BET: Taco Al Pastor Torta de Barbacoa, Club Sandwich, Horchata
REVIEW #1414