The history of slang records that the term “chick,” was first recorded in black slang as far back as 1927. Along with the terms “dame” or “skirt,” the term “chick” was used informally (mostly by men) to describe young women. It wasn’t until the 1970s during the height of the women’s liberation movement that women lashed out against that term. Women decried the word “chick” as offensive and belittling, a demeaning diminutive depicting independent women as delicate, helpless creatures. Even worse was the term “girl” which infantalized grown women.
A generation or two later, both “girl” and “chick” have experienced a rebirth. This time it’s women themselves who revived the previously objectionable term. It’s become social zeitgeist for women to use the terms to convey solidatity with other women. It’s about “girl power” as exemplified in the phrase “You go, girl?” To the extreme, some women even use the pejorative “bitch” and even “cow” (especially in England) to refer to one another, but I caution any man stupid enough to follow suit. The terms “chick” and “girl” have become uncoupled from such adjectives as “hot” or “smart.” In fact, chick has become an adjective itself: chick lit, chick flick, chick filet (scratch that one). As a geriatrically advanced dude (the male equivalent of chick as well as the name of my debonair dachshund), I was nonetheless surprised to find Reno has a breakfast restaurant named Two Chicks.
The gender-specific propriety of the term “chick” didn’t embolden me to use the term to address our servers (all chicks…er, women). I did ask one who appeared to have a leadership role if she was one of the chicks. “I wish. I’m just a chicklet,” she responded. Nor will I use the term “chick” to refer to Allison, our host in a Reno airbnb with which we fell in love. Allison recommended Two Chicks to us. Considering how much we loved the coffee shop she suggested, we had no doubt Two Chicks would make breakfast a memorable meal.
Two Chicks is located about a mile south of the famous sign designating Reno as “The Biggest Little City in the World.” A number of restaurants are clustered in the area (seemingly more restaurants than parking spots). Two Chicks is recessed back a bit from South Virginia, one of the city’s most busy thoroughfares. The restaurant has a curvilinear facade. Outdoor dining under kite-shapped umbrellas is possible only weather-permitting. We found that Reno’s temperatures are comparable to those of the Duke City, but a steady breeze provides some relief.
Two Chicks is awash in color in its interior dining room. Booth, table and bar type seating are more functional than they are comfortable. I had hoped to meet at least one of the Two Chicks, but neither was available. Even without them, the restaurant operated smoothly. The Two Chicks are Haley (Red Chick) and Jessie (Yellow Chick). Nevada Natives and Reno enthusiasts, they’ve been in the food and beverage industry since first holding employment. Together they launched Two Chicks in 2014. Their first full dining restaurant serves breakfast and lunch and is committed to offering fresh ingredients, homemade dishes and elevated comfort food.
Sitting close to the corrugated roofing counter behind which orders are prepared, we watched as one employee diligently sliced one orange after another for use on fresh-squeezed orange juice. Consider it sacrilege if you will, but it proved even better than my favorite orange juice at Albuquerque’s Frontier Restaurant. The coffee was also superb. With a brand name of Wood-Fire Roasted Coffee, it can’t help but be good. Nor are the Two Chicks chintzy with portion sizes. Some restaurants serve coffee on thimbles. The Chicks poured generously into barrel-sized mugs and refilled as needed.
The Two Chicks menu is a veritable compendium of breakfast and brunch favorites. In a menu section titled “Dos Chicas” were familiar New Mexican favorites: breakfast burrito, breakfast tacos, chilaquiles and huevos rancheros. Melts and sandwiches held my attention for a while, especially after seeing some were constructed on “Icky wheat bread” from the Great Basin Brewing Company in Reno. I’m probably not the first to accidentally call it “Yucky” bread. At any regard, Yucky…er Icky bread toast with the restaurant’s apple butter is quite good. I’ll leave it to you to discover the rest of the menu. Suffice to say it’s quite thorough.
Both my Kim and I were in the mood for something sweet. For her, an almond poppyseed French toast combo made with thick-cut sweet bread served with blueberry compote and butter as well as two eggs and bacon (from a choice of bacon, sausage, ham or chorizo). These were elevated French toast with a sprinkling of confectioner sugar to go with the tangy blueberry compote and tooth-decaying sweet syrup. Three full slices of the slice of life in its finest Francophile form were fabulous (excuse the alliteration). The blueberry compote, a chunky, sweet, spreadable sauce was served hot as was the syrup.
My choice was a first for me: grain-free sweet potato pancake combo. The pancakes wouldn’t have been such a big surprise to me even had I read the description more closely. The emphasis (not discernible by reading) was not on “sweet potato” but on “potato pancake” as in pancakes typically made with mashed potatoes. These pancakes were made with eggs, sweet potatoes, vanilla and cinnamon. They’re grain-free and gluten free. I had expected the pancakes to taste at least as sweet as sweet potato fries, but that wasn’t the case. They were good once syrup was lavished, but not something I would order again. Fortunately there’s a lot more on the menu from which to choose. “Combo” meant two eggs (any style I wanted) and my choice of bacon, sausage, ham or chorizo. Scrambled eggs with cheese and onions proved a good choice, but the real surprise was the Basque chorizo which had a pleasant piquancy and plenty of personality.
Two Chicks is an eggsceptional restaurant for breakfast and brunch. USA Today’s 10Best named it one of the best restaurants in Reno. In local polls, it consistently ranks in the top three for breakfast. It’s hard to imagine anything better on a bleary morning.
Two Chicks
252 South Virginia
Reno, Nevada
(775) 323-0600
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LATEST VISIT: 27 June 2024
# OF VISITS: 1
RATING: N/R
COST: $$
BEST BET: Wood-Fire Roasted Coffee, Fresh Squeezed Orange Juice, Grain-Free Sweet Potato Pancake Combo, Almond Poppyseed French Toast Combo
REVIEW #1408