When we tell fellow New Mexicans we lived in Mississippi for eight years, they look at us like we’ve lived in Mars. Mississippi is not a dichotomy to many people in that they can’t think about anything good about it. Most dredge up the Magnolia State’s ignominious past or they bring up stereotypes about the state’s literacy and education (despite Missisissipi’s public schools ranking higher than New Mexico’s). We often feel we have to defend all that is good and wonderful about Mississippi…and there is a lot to love. Foremost are the people. We befriended and have remained friends with so many people along the Mississippi Gulf Coast. Most of them are God loving, God fearing people who love their country. I stood with Mississippi when most of the rest of the country was protesting the Libyan invasion. Throughout the Magnolia State, the American flag waved proudly.
Okay, this blog is about celebrating food, not about politics. Mississippi excels in the former department. Contrary to the stereotype, not every food in the state is fried though we grew to love fried pickles, fried alligator, fried catfish, fried pickles…and of course, donuts made from potato flour. To the detriment of our waistlines, we lived about two miles from The Tatonut Donut Shop in Ocean Springs. Now, we’ve had donuts from most of the contiguous United States, but we’ve never had better donuts than those Tatonuts. They were a Saturday morning ritual our four-legged children Lardycake (the most beautiful Yorkie ever conceived) and Chewie also enjoyed.
At that point in our lives, we had no idea flour could be made from potatoes and at first the notion seemed strange. Was there a wheat shortage? Was potato flour made during the Depression when wheat was too expensive? My mom told me that potato flour was often used as a thickener for smoother sauces, gravies and soups, and in gluten free cooking, but donuts? It turns out potato donuts (usually referred to as spudnuts) have been around since 1870, just five years after the Civil War. After leaving Mississippi in 1995, we next encountered potato donuts at a franchise donut shop fittingly called “Spudnut” in Santa Barbara, California. The Spudnut franchise once had more than 500 locations across the fruited plain. Today, only a handful of independent stores remain.
Spudnuts are lighter and fluffier than all-flour donuts. They’re usually topped with the same variety of frosting or toppings as other doughnuts. That means you can find all your favorite donut types at a store making and selling spudnuts. We were thrilled to learn about Johnny O’s Spudnuts in Farmington. Johnny O’s parent location is in Logan, Utah not too far from where potato flour is milled. When the mill closed down during the Cabrona virus, Johnny O’s also closed down. Today, it is not only thriving but is exploring potential locations for expansion.
Johnny O’s Spudnuts is a full-service restaurant. In addition to a dream selection of spudnuts, you’ll find four breakfast burritos served with your choice of hot or mild salsa, hot dog and cheeseburger combos, chicken sandwiches, chicken strips, taquitos, fries and onion rings. Before you approach the counter where you place your order, you’ll encounter a display case brimming with so many spudnuts, you might think you died and St. Peter sent you to spud nut heaven. There’s absolutely no way anyone has the willpower to bypass a spud nut (or six) before ordering any of the savory stuff.
In all honesty, burgers, burritos and hot dogs are not the reason you visit Johnny O’s. Because we were hungry, I had a double green chile cheeseburger and my Kim had a grilled hot dog. There’s not much good to say about the burger–largely because the green chile had about as much punch as a potato. No, what makes Johnny O’s worth a drive–even from Albuquerque–is the spudnuts. We had six of them, four of which are pictured above. They’re everything we remembered about spudnuts as well as everything we need to avoid when we’re dieting. Spudnuts are superior to donuts in every way!
Reminiscent of the 1984 Dunkin Donuts commercial depicting a baker coming in early in the morning and bemoaning “time to make the donuts,” an employee of Johnny O’s actually does come in at an hour in which most of us are enjoying REM sleep. Those donuts–some 30 different shapes and sizes–are perfectly crisped and glazed on the outside, light and fluffy on the inside. Everything at Johnny O’s is hand mixed, cut and fried to maximize freshness and flavor.
Johnny O’s Spudnuts
509 East 20th Street
Farmington, New Mexico
(505) 258-4840
Website | Facebook Page
LATEST VISIT: 19 June 2024
# OF VISITS: 1
RATING: N/R
COST: $$
BEST BET: Cinnamon Roll Spudnut, Glazed Spudnut, Chocolate Spudnut, Maple Spudnut
REVIEW #1403
When I was a child Spudnuts were sold by adolescents who would carry a wire basket hung in front by a strap over the neck. They went door to door selling little white bags of 6 donuts. I remember getting them in Albuquerque and Deming. Back in the 80s and 90s I lived in Farmington and the Spudnut shop was on Apache Blvd, on my way to work at San Juan Generating Station. Haven’t had a really good donut since.
Spot on!
‘Spudnuts’ would be a great punk-rock band name 😊
So would “Free Beer.” They would pack the place every night!