El Agave Mexican Restaurant – Rio Rancho, New Mexican

Even the teetotalers among us recognize the importance of agave in the production of tequila and mescal.   What most of us may not fully appreciate is  agave’s diverse cultural and culinary significance, particularly in Mexico.  For example, the drought-resistant succulent plant has been used in medicinal treatments such as treating wounds, digestive ailments, and even as a remedy for coughs and sore throats.  It’s a source of natural sweetener and a healthier alternative to refined sugars.  Restaurants in Mexico use it to prepare salsas, marinades, desserts and even some traditional dishes.  Agave even plays a prominent role in indigenous cultures where it’s revered and valued.  Many of us use it to xeriscape our yards throughout the Southwest.

Since October, 2017, foodies in the City of Vision have recognized another type of agave for which to be grateful.  That would be El Agave, a delightful family-owned-and-operated Mexican restaurant.  If you haven’t seen El Agave during your own peregrinations in Rio Rancho, that’s because it’s recessed about a block from heavily trafficked Rio Rancho Blvd., the city’s main north-south drag.  Worse, it’s esconced in the Lujan Plaza, a timeworn shopping center that’s seen better days.  El Agave occupies a corner space diagonally opposite Upscale Rio.

When El Agave first opened, it was owned by Hector and Lily Venegas, a warm and welcoming couple who relocated to the Land of Enchantment from Raleigh, North Carolina.   After giving it the proverbial “old college try,” the Vinegas family returned to North Carolina.  A different owner assumed the helm, but sold the restaurant at the advent of the Cabrona virus.  That’s when Jose and Judy Marquez took over.  Jose, a Chihuahua native with more than twenty years experience as a chef, runs the kitchen while the effusive Judy, originally from Albuquerque, runs the front of the house.

We had the restaurant to ourselves during our inaugural visit which meant a lot of time to visit with Judy who’s as friendly and helpful as can be.  She told us lunch crowds–thanks largely to an influx of Intel personnel–often fill the restaurant.  El Agave then experiences a lull in activity until about 4:30 when the early dinner crowd starts filing in.  She’s grateful for all her guests and does her best to give them all personal attention.  Because she’s originally from New Mexico and Jose is from Chihuahua, we asked about the style (Mexican or New Mexican) of the chile.  She told us all red chile comes from pods, not from powder and that all menu items are prepared the way they would be prepared at a Mexican home.

Judy also shared that El Agave currently purchases both the flour and corn tortillas used on its dishes, but she and Jose have bought a tortilla press from Mexico.  She hopes to hire someone to operate that press and make fresh tortillas for the restaurant every day.  The corn tortillas she buys are made with white corn, a flavorful variety.  As with most Mexican restaurants, white cheese is used throughout the menu, not the de rigueur Cheddar. Freshness, flavor and familiarity are hallmarks of the restaurant’s menu.  It all starts with a complementary basket of chips and salsa.  Large, crisp and low in salt, the chips arrive warm at your table.  That’s a difference-maker diners appreciate.  The salsa is on the mild side (at least for this volcano-eater), but it’s very good.

For my Kim, who can no longer tolerate any dish more piquant than ketchup, fajitas are an increasingly popular choice.  We both love the thrill of seeing a smoke trail preceding the arrival of this popular dish.  Its olfactory pleasing aroma makes her very happy.  Her fajitas were served on a sizzling cast iron skillet.  That meant the fajitas would continue to cook on the skillet for the duration of our meal.  Indeed, some pieces of beef and onion became caramelized.  Not a problem for me, but my Kim doesn’t like them that way.  Served with flour or corn tortillas, beans and rice, the fajitas were truly worthy of the Albuquerque Journal having named them among the best fajitas in New Mexico in July, 2024.

A few years ago, I was condescendingly dismissive of chimichangas.  My attitude towards these “deep-fried burritos” was resultant from having had them in Arizona where they were served on a tortilla so overly fried and crispy, egg rolls could have used it as a wrapper.  That’s now how New Mexico’s restaurants prepare them.  It’s certainly not how El Agave serves them.  The tortilla may have been deep fried, but it was still soft and delicious.  Neither the red or green chile are particularly piquant, but they’re both delicious and complemented by a molten blanket of white cheese.  Where this chimichanga shines is inside.  It’s replete with finely cut cubes of beef.  Each morsel was delicious.  The chimichanga plate comes with refried beans and rice though you can substitute cubed breakfast papitas for either.  The beans were excellent, the rice not so much.

Judy shared with us that tacos are one of El Agave’s most popular items.  That’s probably the case at most Mexican restaurants, but not every taco is worthy of adulation.  What distinguishes El Agave’s tacos from others is that they are deep-fried.  Not just the corn tortilla, but every bit of it save for the lettuce, tomatoes and shredded white cheese which are added after the frying.   Available proteins include ground beef, shredded beef, shredded chicken and carne asada.  Pescatarians can enjoy fish or shrimp on their tacos.  Birria tacos are an occasional special.

It didn’t take much for Judy to convince us we had to try El Agave’s tacos.  My choice was a ground beef taco, a traditional New Mexican favorite.  There must be some magic in deep frying tacos that only Chef Jose knows.  This was a terrific taco, one that has me craving another (or six).  My Kim asked for a shredded beef taco sans lettuce and tomato.   Judy told us the shredded beef is tri-tip, an unbelievably juicy and tender cut Californians recognized well before the rest of us.  Needless to say, the shredded beef taco was even better than the ground beef taco–which means it was both memorable and craveable.

Whether you’re fortunate enough (like my Kim and I) to live in the City of Vision or you’re just passing through, a visit to El Agave will make you happy you visited.

El Agave Mexican Restaurant
1520 Deborah Road, S.E.
Rio Rancho, New Mexico
(505) 994-8809
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LATEST VISIT: 4 October 2024
# OF VISITS: 1
RATING: N/R
COST: $$
BEST BET:  Salsa and Chips, Ground Beef Taco, Shredded Beef Taco, Fajitas, Chimichanga Plate
REVIEW #1425