My mom was born in 1929, the last year of the Great Depression. She still recalls that during her childhood, her family would take grist ( grain) and separate it from its chaff (seed coverings and other debris) in preparation for being ground into flour. They would then take the family’s horse and buggy over the precipitous mountain roads to Cleveland (the one in New Mexico). In Cleveland, they would have the grain ground into flour in “el molino,” the Cleveland Roller Mill. The Mill is a three story adobe edifice with a water-powered mill used for grinding. Today, that mill has been turned into a local museum where its original machinery remains intact and has been restored significantly to the point that it can be operated for demonstration purposes.
When I asked my dear friend and trusted guide Melinda Martinez to pick where our next culinary adventure would be, she selected The Gristmill River Restaurant, located on the banks of the Guadalupe River in Gruene Historic District, in New Braunfels, Texas. Gruene is located in the Texas Hill Country, 30 minutes north of San Antonio, and 45 minutes south of Austin, on IH-35. The setting was spectacular, my delightful friend convivial and the food ambrosial. This was to be my last meal on my final day of a six-day peregrination to the San Antonio area. My journey reminded me just how grateful I was to the Air Force for having sent me to San Antonio several times. Had my Kim and I not retired to New Mexico, we would have decamped to San Antonio.
Located beneath Gruene’s landmark water tower in the ruins of an 1878 cotton gin overlooking the Guadalupe River, the historic Gristmill has been considered one of the most unique dining spots in Texas since it launched in 1977 (coincidentally when my Air Force career was launched in San Antonio less than an hour away). The Gristmill is a rare combination of history, location and turn-of-the-century architecture. Is it any wonder its website calls it “A True Texas Experience.” The Gristmill was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1975 as part of Gruene Historic District.
The refurbished multi-level restaurant features outdoor and indoor dining overlooking the Guadalupe River. Intimate dining rooms are kept warm with native stone fireplaces while the indoor bar has a wood-burning stove. Befitting the Hill Country’s Germanic influences, there’s a relaxing beer garden on the premises. At the bottom of the old water tower, you’ll find a merchandise store. The River Grove, added in 1998, is a refreshing bricked patio nestled in a grove of trees overlooking the river. Outfitted with 10 distinct dining areas, The Gristmill can accommodate nearly any size party from an intimate dinner for two to a large group of 65.
When the Gristmill River Restaurant opened its doors in 1977, steaks and hamburgers were prepared in a tiny kitchen in the corner of a broiler room. Thick slabs of juicy meat remain staples of the current upscale casual dining menu, to which has been added such popular South Texas fare as chicken fried steak, fried catfish, grilled chicken, Texas-sized sandwiches, fresh fish and Gristmill’s secret specialties. Desserts, including one which literally had Melinda raise her arms in thanksgiving, are popular picks for those of us who love sweets. It all washes down easily with a favorite from The Gristmill’s beer cooler, wine list or hand-crafted cocktail menu. Sadly, however, The Gristmill does not offer Big Red, my favorite soft drink when having barbecue or visiting Texas.
When in Texas, you do what Texans do. That means ordering a four per order appetizer of Texas Torpedoes (hand-battered, deep fried bacon wrapped jalapeños stuffed with Cheddar, Jack and cream cheese. Served with chipotle ranch.) Contrary to popular belief, the size of jalapeños does not usually correlate directly with its piquancy. I’ve enjoyed jalapeños of all sizes and sometimes they water my eyes and make my nose run. Sometimes, they’re barely more piquant than a bell pepper. These were muy picante!
After all my snide comments on this blog about Texans not being able to handle the heat of New Mexico’s chile, I couldn’t let Melinda see that the potent peppers were actually making me perspire. Thank goodness for the Cheddar, Jack and cream cheeses. Melinda, who doesn’t subscribe to macho affectations such as eating peppers that bring pain, also found the Texas Torpedoes almost too hot to handle. Okay, so they were caliente, but they were also muy sabrosos. So was the chipotle ranch dressing which also brought a level of heat.
Several years ago, my friend Bruce “Sr. Plata” Silver compiled a Chicken Fried Steak Trail in which he chronicled our efforts to find the best chicken fried steak in the Albuquerque area. It remains one of the most popular pages on this blog. Author Larry McMurty said it best, “Only a rank degenerate would drive 1,500 miles across Texas without eating a chicken fried steak.” For Texans, chicken fried steak is a religion, one they preach with great enthusiasm. You might think my friend Bruce “Sr. Plata” Silver is as Texan as they come, but he’s a proud born-and-bred Californian. He loves chicken fried steak more than anyone I’ve ever met.
In my friend’s honor, I had to order chicken fried steak (hand breaded and deep fried, topped with cream gravy) at least once (or risk being called a rank degenerate). Sr. Plata would have loved The Gristmill’s version. Befitting of the Lone Star State’s “everything is bigger in Texas” mantra, the fluffy-but-still-crispy buttermilk chicken fried steak covered much of the plate. Blanketed by a peppery white gravy, the lightly crusted breaded cutlet dish was (not surprisingly) better than just about any chicken fried steak in New Mexico. To the detriment of the accompanying mashed potatoes, I finished the entire chicken fried steak and enjoyed every morsel of the behemoth beef.
After contemplating several options, Melinda took our server Anissa’s advice and ordered the pork chop special. Special is an apropos description for this porcine platter. Two glistening, bestriped slabs of pork were accompanied by three sauces: a honey lime glaze, a herbaceous chimichurri and a garlicky hot sauce. Also on the prodigious platter were two slices of lightly toasted bread, green beans and mashed potatoes slathered in white cream gravy. The pork chop Melinda shared with me was absolutely delicious. Melinda loved it, too, polishing off all but a small portion.
I asked our server if she was named for Anissa Jones, the beloved actress who portrayed “Buffy” in the 60s comedy Family Affair. Her reaction and Melinda’s was perhaps what my stand-up comedian friend Bill Resnik experienced when telling a bad joke. In other words, no reaction. Anissa or Melinda aren’t nearly as geriatrically advanced as I am, but I thought Family Affair may have once been in syndication in the San Antonio area.
I have a compromising photograph of Melinda’s raising her eyes as in praise as she gazed skyward in loving adoration. I jokingly accused her of giving thanks for the slab of Texas chocolate sheetcake a la mode (a Texas-sized slice of chocolate sheet cake with pecans, rich chocolate icing and topped with Blue Bell homemade vanilla ice cream. Her retort: ” I was thanking the Lord for a beautiful day and the delicious Texas chocolate sheet cake.” Melinda has a beautiful heart and is unfailingly honest. The only thing I would have added is my gratitude for our friendship.
Okay, we’re not here to sing Kumbaya. You want to hear about this chocolate sheet cake with which we were both besotted. It was one of the very best chocolate cakes it’s been my joy to experience. Every shared morsel was an experience in exhilaration. Intensely deep chocolate topped by a rich chocolate ganache…can anything possibly be better. Yes! Add Blue Bell ice cream, a Texas institution. It’s rich, homemade-tasting with a special hand-cranked flavor that many (and not just Texans) believe is the best in the country.
As with most prolific meals, particularly those involving chicken fried steak and colossal pork chops, a nap afterwards would have been nice. But, Melinda took me to Gruene Hall, the state’s oldest dance hall (circa 1878) festooned with photographs of a young George Strait. She then took me to a local shop where vintage candies can be found. It was a fitting end to a wonderful visit to my favorite region of Texas with my new friend.
Gristmill River Restaurant
1287 Gruene Road
New Braunfels, Texas
(830) 625-0684
Website | Facebook Page
LATEST VISIT: 19 September 2024
# OF VISITS: 1
RATING: N/R
COST: $$$
BEST BET: Texas Chocolate Sheet Cake a la mode, Pork Chop Special, Chicken Fried Steak, Texas Torpedoes
REVIEW #1421
Gil, this place looks AMAZING and maybe next year on a Gil/Platas adventure, this would be a definite Must! Thx for sharing my love for Chicken Fried Steak (CDS) and bringing that delicious looking gravy. I am actually dreaming of taking a major bite out of it now and sad about what to do 2 states away. My good Friend Ted J. has eaten there many times and has a Friend who claims it has the best Beef Ribs around. All I know is I need a good dose of Texas Food and BBQ and could I find something close to it in Arizona, hmmmmm
I’m not sure if this calls for a “Bless my stars!” or a “Kiss my grits!” Either way, 18 years ago I was in New Braunfels visiting a life-long friend (literally, life long. We met as babies), and had the pleasure of eating at The Grist Mill. I also enjoyed the chicken fried steak and chocolate sheet cake. Such a delightful blast from the past to read your review.
Hi Morgain
It’s always so nice to hear from you.
New Braunfels is a wonderful Hill Country town, one of my favorites. In the 90s, the Air Force would send me there for 30 days a year to develop psychometrics (write tests). On weekends we would go inner tubing down the Guadalupe. Invariably we’d end up as red as the smoke ring at the New Braunfels Smokehouse where we ate afterwards.