“The Lord God caused the man to fall into a deep sleep;
and while he was sleeping, he took one of the man’s ribs
and then closed up the place with flesh.
Then the Lord God made a woman from the rib he had taken out of the man,
and he brought her to the man”
~Genesis 2:21-22
Ever since God took a rib from Adam and created Eve with it, Adam and Eve’s male desccendents have been craving ribs almost as if wanting to replace the one God took. Whether short ribs, baby back ribs, spare ribs, St. Louis style ribs, or any other type of of rib, the scions of the first couple have a rapacious appetite for ribs, the meatier the better. NOTE: Because both men and women have the same number of ribs (24: 12 on each side of the rib cage) God must have replaced the missing rib on Adam and Eve’s progeny.
One of the most prolific paramours of ribs is my friend Bruce “Sr. Plata” Silver. Together we’ve journeyed far and wide in search of Korean style beef short ribs and beef ribs, his two favorite types of beef ribs. When he and his brother Loren “Lenchito” Silver invited me to join them in another beef rib excursion, I thought for a while our journey would take us to the Holy Land. Seriously, I had no idea Mesa sprawled as much as it did and that much of its acreage was agrarian. Our journey to Big Nate’s Family BBQ took us far away from the trappings of modern suburbia and deep into an industrial section of Mesa none of us knew even existed.
Big Nate’s Family BBQ is unlike any barbecue joint we’ve visited during our junkets. It’s ensconced in an industrial area where it shares a parking lot with automotive repair shops. Signage is somewhat nondescript. Frankly–and this should be the case with all barbecue restaurants–you’ll need to follow your nose to your destination. A smoker parked directly in front of the restaurant sends out hazy plumes of perfumed air that waft toward you like a siren’s call. Step into the restaurant and you’ll encounter a very small dining room. It’s essentially a counter where you place your order and two picnic-style tables for patrons.
Los Hermanos Silver, two of the very finest people I’ve ever met, are men after my own heart. Not only do they perpetually crave beef ribs, they’re curious to the nth degree. They ask intelligent questions that pry into a restaurant’s operation–not as annoying critics do, but as genuinely interested diners. We were invited to a back room adjacent to the dining room where my friends discussed Big Nate’s beef ribs, all of which are smoked for 12 hours. Beef ribs are available only on Fridays. Big Nate’s smokes about 30 ribs every Friday and tends to sell out early. None of us had an inkling whether a one-pound rib or a two-pound rib would sate us. Our very kind hostess (below) demonstrated the Flintstonian ribs for us. Ultimately, we each decided on ribs weighing between 1.1 and 1.3 pounds.
Carson Valley Meats attempts to resolve the beef vs. pork ribs controversy: “Beef ribs tend to be fattier and more flavorful than pork ribs, although pork spareribs, cut from the sternum, are also fattier and pretty darn tasty. One thing that differentiates the two is where the meat comes from. Beef back ribs are leftover from where the ribeye is cut away, which makes them less meaty. Short ribs are from the lower half of the rib cage and are meatier and tastier. Pork ribs are cut in a variety of ways, and depending on where they’re cut, will give you different textures and flavors.”
As expected, our beef ribs were rather fatty (and equally annoying to us, a rubbery and inedible membrane). Together the fat and the bone probably comprised close to half the total weight of each beef rib. Neither of us are especially fond of fat (a little goes a long way), but the actual beef itself was quite good. Lots of coarsely ground black pepper and salt make up the rub. The ribs are only lightly smoked which allows diners to focus on the beef. Much as we enjoyed the meaty portion of the ribs, none of our trio had the gastronomic fortitude to have another rib.
Beef ribs alone would have made for mammoth meals, but it wouldn’t be a true barbecue meal without sides. The menu offers loaded mashed potatoes, Nacho Mama’s mac, Southwestern pasta salad, BBQ beans, fresh coleslaw and cornbread (with our without green chile). Since you’re likely curious about the green chile cornbread, let’s just say it had the piquancy of a bell pepper. The cornbread was honey-sweet and very dense and moist. Baked beans are my favorite barbecue side. There’s just something about the saucy, smoky syrupy blend of savory and sweet flavors that has a primal effect on me.
Big Nate’s daily lunch special is called “The Trinity” (renamed from “The Holy Trinity” for obvious reasons). The Trinity features mouth-watering brisket, amazing pulled pork, and our perfectly seasoned chicken quarters, with a side of signature mashed potatoes, and a side of pulled pork beans. I placed an order to take home to my Kim only to realize I didn’t have my credit card. Rather than impose on my friends, I tried to cancel the order only to be told it was “on the house.” That act of kindness earned quite a bit of respect and loyalty from me.
Our debonair dachshund The Dude had a very nice visit with his “uncles” Bruce and Loren. He didn’t share in our barbecue bounty, but thoroughly enjoyed fellowship with the guys.
Big Nate’s Family BBQ
1722 North Banning, Suite 102
Mesa, Arizona
(480) 525-7291
Website | Facebook Page
LATEST VISIT: 29 December 2023
# OF VISITS: 1
RATING: N/R
COST: $$$$
BEST BET: Beef Ribs, Green Chile Corn Bread, Baked Beans
REVIEW #1370
I currently live in Tucson and I’m occasionally in Mesa. The beef ribs look amazing!
Big Nate’s is a local family business located in Mesa Az located in a commercial area. They serve meaty beef ribs on Fridays & Saturdays in limited amounts. They sell out quickly.
Sold by the pound. One rib did it for me. The Southwest pasta salad was delicious.
Brisket was tender.
Seating is extremely limited. Get there early!
How Blessed and Special it was to be in the company of Sensei, my brother and The Dude in an Arizona BBQ restaurant specializing in Beef Ribs Fridays & Saturdays! I hope we make this an annual pilgrimage! The beef ribs had an amazing flavor and as you see in Gil’s picture, quite large. It’s impressive we walked into the back and picked out our particular ribs. I agree, it was a bit on the fatty side and I think ‘Inedible Membrane?’ Would thoroughly enjoy all of it to the bone. As I said, the meat was properly smoked and the Texas sized rib was ever worth the drive to get there. I liked the southwest pasta salad, good spices and hint of the southwest flavors and a side of cornbread very good. Would like to hear of others favorite dinosaur or Texas short rib establishments??
Honestly, there is nothing in this review that would make me want to eat their BBQ. Furthermore when you say things like: “but it wouldn’t be a true barbecue meal without sides.”, Gil, I know for sure that you weren’t raised in BBQ country. You know the old definition of a Texas BBQ Sandwitch, don’t you? You eat the brisket with a knife and fork while looking at a slice of white bread (which is traditionally inedible white Wonderbread anyway).
Ah yes, my fellow pedant. But you must remember that barbecue is a social event in which sides are available for weird people who don’t eat just meat.
True I didn’t grow up in barbecue country, but have been a Kansas City barbecue society judge for a number of years. In KCBS competition we also judge sides,
When I was a kid and went to BBQ places (Texas, Arkansas, Louisiana), the best places were a smoker along the road and the only “side” offered was the aforementioned Wonderbread and 2 or 3 pickled jalapeños. At the sit down places in the Midsouth you might be able to get some baked beans or potato salad. The people that you speak of that “don’t eat just meat” didn’t really exist or at least weren’t acknowledged (why would you go to a BBQ place if you don’t want to eat just meat?)
Kansas City has got good ribs but it’s way overrated in my opinion. (Memphis is better.) And anyway, pork ribs are pretty easy to do … no artistry required. Brisket on the other hand …
Gil,
To me, “the Trinity” have always been Al Bundy, Bob Rooney, Jefferson Darcy 😊
Leaving Griff off that hallowed list must have been a tough decision. You probably justified it because Griff appears to have failed out of Naval jet school…or maybe because he considered selling shoes some sort of weird self-actualization.
Hmm, there is very little on a rib I find inedible…bone and depending on the fat content, maybe some of the fat. I’d love to have one of these ribs just to see how I size up this membrane of which you speak…and because they look/sound delicious! I favor beef ribs over pork ribs usually, however I have had some pork ribs that make me question my stance, at times…