In his Netflix “23 Hours to Kill” special, comedian Jerry Seinfeld posed the question: “What is the idea of the buffet? Well, things are bad. How can we make it worse? Why don’t we put people that are already struggling with portion control into some kind of debauched Caligula food orgy of unlimited human consumption?” Frankly, that’s a notion I’ve contemplated myself, but it’s not the only reason I don’t partake of buffets. As an independent observer of the culinary condition, reviewing buffets–irrespective of how good they might be–is not a true indicator of a restaurant’s quality. For that, you’ve got to order off the menu.
Please don’t get me wrong. I’m not anti-buffetite. My Kim loves buffets. So does our friend John Martin, a fellow trencherman. During the height of the Cabrona virus, even culinary cognoscenti believed all-you-can-eat buffets were a thing of the past, just like sending Christmas cards. The more fastidious among us were relieved that sanitation protocols would be the riddance of those too short plexiglass sneeze guards and the sharing of serving sporks and tongs. Sadly, doing away with buffets–even if only for a short time–resulted in the permanent closure of such buffet favorites as Sweet Tomatoes.
Alas, no virus could vanquish Bacchanalian feasts with their celebrations of excess. Buffets are back. According to an industry market research company, buffets were a $5.5 billion industry in 2022 — up 9% from 2021. The reason given for Americans returning to buffets have everything to do with the economy. Amid record inflation–with at-home food prices rising more than 11% in just 2022–buffets make a lot of sense. You know what it’s going to cost you to get in and get out at buffet restaurants. Not only that, the selection of items is cost-prohibitive to prepare and serve at home.
Indian restaurants are both beneficiaries and victims of the buffet culture. Buffets are akin to “Indian Cuisine 101,” an entry-level introduction to the foods of the exotic Indian subculture. Sadly, some diners don’t graduate beyond that entry-level introduction and never venture beyond a limited number of items on the buffet. My Kim is an exemplar of this style of dining. To her, an Indian buffet would be complete if its only offerings were tandoori chicken, naan, mango pudding and the de rigueur fruits such as watermelon and grapes. No matter how effusively I extol the deliciousness of menu items, they’re usually “too spicy” for her. That’s her prerogative as are buffet visits an individual choice
The ubiquitous buffet is a hallmark of Maharaja Indian Cuisine which opened its doors in September, 2024. As with most Indian restaurants, buffet dining is available only for lunch (11AM – 2:30PM). Dinner is designated for “fine dining.” Special dinner buffets are available Friday and Saturday nights from 5PM – 10PM. Maharaja is the sister restaurant of the Taj Palace, a very popular buffet restaurant on Eubank. Maharaja is located on the westernmost complex in a nondescript shopping center on Lomas midway between Carlisle and San Mateo. Previous occupants include Mr. Tux Formalwear and I Do, I Do Bridal.
Maharaja’s website boasts that “for over 25 years, Chef Rashal Sandhu has prepared the finest Indian cuisine in Albuquerque. Found himself in a bustling kitchen in the city, a world apart from his humble beginnings in the Punjab, armed with recipes and a relentless passion for perfection, he sought out to conquer American palates with the richness of Indian cuisine. He is delighted to be serving you.” From the second you’re greeted at the door, you get the impession that the staff is indeed delighted to be serving you. Politeness and formality are hallmarks of Indian restaurants, perhaps nowhere moreso than at Maharaja where you’re addressed as “sir” or “madam” and extended every courtesy.
Maharaja is a Sanskrit word that means “great king.” It refers to a Hindu monarch or prince in India who ranked above a raja (king). Maharaja, the restaurant on Lomas, may not look especially oppulent from the outside, but step inside and you’ll be thoroughly impressed by the decor and the restaurant’s sheer size. There are two main dining rooms, both of which can accomodate a sizeable crowd. Most of the lunch crowd is there for the buffet. Maharaja’s buffet is extensive. Gleaming metallic trays showcase both vegetarian and non-vegetarian items, each appearing fresh and delicious. A separate section of the buffet is designated for various chutneys, fruits and Kim’s favorite mango pudding.
While my Kim feasted on her “usual suspects:” tandoori chicken, mango pudding, naan and watermelon, her buffet-eschewing husband perused the menu with the deliberateness of a slow-striking clock. The menu is segmented into logical and inviting categories: tempting appetizers, hearty soups, biryani, naan breads, tandoori temptations, chicken entrees, lamb entrees, goat entrees, fish and shrimp entrees, vegetarian entrees, vegan entrees and condiments. It’s a great read, like a Rudyard Kipling novel listing Indian cuisine.
Recipes of India explains “Lassi is a cooling, refreshing, probiotic drink perfect for the warm summer months made essentially with curd or yogurt, sugar or salt, spices or flavoring ingredients like green cardamom, saffron or rose water. Popular in Punjab and North India, there are many variations of a lassi recipe, including mango lassi, dry fruits lassi, and malai lassi.” Though we may differ in our choice of entrees, my Kim and I agree on having lassi with every meal of Indian cuisine. Typically this has meant mango lassi, but Maharaja offers a lassi we didn’t know existed: strawberry lassi. Both were refreshing and delicious.
A wonderful counterbalance to the cooling effect of lassi is one of the three hearty soups on the menu: mulligatawny soup, madras soup and dal soup. Mulligatawny may sound like the name of an Irish jig, but it has absolutely nothing to do with the Irish and is as far from Ireland as it gets. Mulligawny is a traditional curry soup which is rich in ingredients, comforting and absolutely delicious. It’s not purely an Indian soup. It’s an English soup inspired by an Indian recipe. The name roughly translates from Tamil as “pepper water”. The original Indian recipe is not even a soup, it’s a sauce that is served with rice. Maharaja’s version is among the very best I’ve had (though in the spirit of full disclosure, I’ve never had the Soup Nazi’s version).
Questions have been asked on this blog about the propriety of having naan from the buffet when ordering from the menu. It’s a question I ask at every Indian restaurant we visit. Most of them are fine with diners enjoying naan from the buffet even if ordering from the menu. For me, it still doesn’t feel right. Besides, naan from the buffet won’t be as fresh as naan ordered separately. Maharaja’s best bread bet is the bread basket (combination of freshly baked breads: aloo paratha, onion kulcha and garlic naan. If you’re a bread fiend, you’ll love this combination basket.
One of the many wonderful things about Maharaja’s menu is variety. What could be better than selecting from among chicken entrees, lamb entrees, goat entrees, fish and shrimp entrees, vegetarian entrees and vegan entrees? I was pretty excited to find goat kadai on the menu until our server admitted it’s a pretty bony entree. He suggested lamb kadai (boneless chicken sauteed with red and green peppers, onions and green chiles) instead. Great suggestion! Large chunks of tender lamb marinated in an aromatic curry tempered by yogurt. If there’s one dish that celebrates Punjab spices, aromas, and textures, it would be lamb kadai, increasingly one of my very favorite Indian dishes.
The buffet is alive and well at Maharaja Indian Cuisine. So is a menu of Indian cuisine favorites.
Maharaja Indian Cuisine
4900 Lomas Blvd., N.E.
Albuquerque, New Mexico
(505) 554-1754
Website | Facebook Page
LATEST VISIT: 23 October 2024
# OF VISITS: 1
RATING: N/R
COST: $$$
BEST BET: Lamb Kadai, Basket of Bread, Mulligatawny Soup
REVIEW #1428
I’d like to share some of my observations about the buffet for those of your readers who might be interested. I myself often get the buffet, especially if I’m eating at an East Indian restaurant for the first time. If the latter, it’s a great way to sample their culinary tastes and preparation skills. If not, I always want several things when I dine at an Indian restaurant. 1. Saag. Paneer, okay, I mostly want the creamed spinach with flavors other than butter and salt. 2. Another vegetable dish, preferably one with potato. Indian spices bring out the very best in any and all vegetables. 3. A chicken dish. I love tandoori meats, but not on the bone the way your Kim does. I like that marinated clay oven baked chicken, ripped off the bone and added to one of the many “gravies” (Kim’s word; I think it’s cute) that Indian cooking is known for. Masala. Butter chicken. That coconut curry I can never remember the name of. Anyway, there you are — I would have to order three entrees! Much more cost effective to get the buffet. Bonus if they offer samosas or idli. Then of course there’s often lovely fresh fruit and dessert included. I perused the buffet at Maharaja and found it lacking, but luckily for me, the husband signed up so I was able to sample some of my aforementioned favorites. Their cooking style is decidedly different than other Indian restaurants in the Burque (and I believe I’ve tried them all.) I’m not knowledgeable enough to say, oh yes, this is clearly northern Indian cuisine or whatever region, and I’m not calling good or bad. It’s just different. John devoured at least two full plates and was very happy with all of it. On the flip side, I ordered Chicken Tikka Masala for myself and it was not different. The sauce was as I expected and was creamy and delicious. The chicken was very tender. I devoured the entire dish; so much for leftovers! The Maharaja is stunningly decorated and they are being very ambitious and optimistic with their two huge dining rooms. It would be a perfect venue for a wedding or any other celebratory occasion. Definitely a welcome addition to our dining options. I wish them all the best and am anxious to see what others think as they venture there and sample their cuisine.
Thank you for reviewing this place! I live nearby and have been waiting for your inevitable take to try it out. I feel I can now do so with confidence. Best to you and Kim.