Habibi House – Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)

Before Al Gore invented the internet, it wasn’t easy for logophiles (lovers of words) like me to figure out what some words meant.  “Lover of words,” in my case was an understatement.  I was obsessed about learning every new word–its etymology (origin, definition and context, even what it used to mean) I came across.  It’s a wonder my parents (both educators) didn’t put this precocious, pedantic child up for adoption. Dictionaries were of little help as their content was mostly limited to English words.  The Velazquez dictionary was helpful when I wanted to learn a new Spanish word, but that, too, was limiting.  Alas, no comprehensive resource seemed to exist to sate my curiosity.

Here’s an example of my dilemma.  The popular 60’s television show I Dream of Jeanie was replete with Arabic words.  For most people being entertained was enough, but not for me.  When a new word was used, I wanted to know what it meant–even if it was a proper name.  Jeanie’s master (played by the altitudinous Ted Cassidy) was named Habib.  No source or person of my acquaintance had any idea what “Habib” meant.  Surely, when Jeanie’s master’s parents named their son Habib, it was because the etymology of the name meant something to them.  Maybe the name represented a trait such as bravery or intelligence.

It wasn’t until the Air Force stationed me in Massachusetts that I learned what Habib means.  One of the owners of a Middle Eastern restaurant outside of Boston gave me the type of vocabulary lesson a lexiphile (another term for lover of words) like me loves.  He explained that Habib literally translates as “a person one loves,” a term of endearment among Arabic speaking nations.   To use the term in the masculine sense, you would use “habibi.”  For a female, you would use “habibti.”  You would probably not use either habibi or habiti to address your boss or a colleague with whom you are not having an intimate relationship.

You’d think my vocabulary of Arabic words would be more comprehensive considering online resources have revealed to me words and expressions theretofore seen on I Dream of Jeannie or in movies depicting Middle Eastern characters.  I can tell you the definition of such terms as abracadabra (I will create as I speak), alakazam (invocation of magical power or to indicate an instantaneous transformation or appearance that occurs by or as if by magic), Haji (one who has made a pilgrimage to Mecca) and jameela (beautiful).  Knowing these words isn’t very useful when I hear my friend Nader speak his native Arabic tongue.

Habibi Kitchen is the brick-and-mortar instantiation of the Mediterranean Kitchen, a fabulous food truck that opened in 2021 and sadly lasted less than a full year.   In its more expansive, four seasons accommodating space within The Village at Nob Hill, Habibi House is now able to expand its repertoire of Middle Eastern delicacies.  Located in the in the spot formerly occupied by P’tit Louis Bistro, Habibi House doesn’t go overboard in its thematic application of Middle Eastern trappings.  Other than a few framed photographs and table cloths adorned in Arabic finery, not much has changed.  That’s okay.  As you approach Habibi House, the aromas emanating from the kitchen will confirm you’re not going to dine on French food.

If you’re an aficionado of Middle Eastern cuisine, it will do your heart good to peruse the menu, an expansive compendium of familiar favorites.   If you ever visited the Mediterranean Kitchen, it’ll also do your heart good to see the familiar smiling face of owner-chef Abu Abdullah.  He remembered and was happy to see us.  Habibi Kitchen has a small dog-friendly patio that faces Silver Avenue.  Passers-by are either destined for or coming from one of the restaurants in the Village at Nob Hill.  Neighbors include Limonata Nob Hill Crepe Escape  and Ajiaco Colombian Bistro.  The area is a shoppers and diners paradise just one block recessed from Route 66.

20 May 2023: Hummus is widely regarded as the quintessential Middle Eastern dip, so much so that it’s become ubiquitous well beyond the Mediterranean.  While there’s no doubting its deliciousness, my preference has long been for baba ganoush, a rich Middle Eastern dip made from charred eggplant, onions, tahini, lemon juice, garlic, yogurt, olive oil, and salt. In her definitive tome A New Book of Middle Eastern Food Egyptian born food writer Claudia Roden refers to baba ganoush as “exciting and vulgarly seductive.”  Great adjectives!  Habibi House’s version is among the best in the metropolitan area, its distinctive smoky notes pervading every morsel.  Better still, it’s served with perhaps the best pita in New Mexico.  It’s pita nearly the size of a tortilla and it’s served out of the oven.

20 May 2023: On the Entrees section of the menu, you’ll find a delightful array of grilled proteins sure to please.  That includes a grilled whole quail chicken (hmm, must be some kind of hybrid), musakhan and quarter, half or whole sized grilled chicken (seasoned with signature spices and marinated overnight).  Confident she’d love it, my Kim ordered an entire chicken, reasoning she’d take at least half of it home.  Splayed on a large plate, the chicken is literally covered by a tangle of pearlescent olives and sundry seasonings.  It’s a good thing my Kim loves onions almost as much as she loves chicken.  These onions were sautéed to the point just before they would caramelized.  The chicken was moist, tender and wonderfully seasoned.  Sheathed by a flavorful, crispy golden skin, this grilled chicken is a standard-setter.

20 May 2023: In recent years lamb chops have become as costly as filling up the tank of an F-250.  Sticker shock is inevitable should you order them at most restaurants.  They’ve pretty much become a splurge item.  When asked how I want my lamb chops prepared, I generally acquiesce to “however the chef decides they should be prepared.”  Yeah, it’s a bit like trusting Alec Baldwin to teach you gun safety, but almost invariably the lamb chops are at a perfect degree of doneness.  Such was the case at Habibi when four succulent lamb chops arrived at our table.  Prepared to about medium, they had plenty of moistness and were nearly as tender as lamb meatballs.  Best of all, they were priced at about a third what it would take to fill up that aforementioned F-250.  The chops were accompanied by rice and a salad with some of the best tzatziki sauce we’ve had.

20 May 2023: Desserts included my favorite Middle Eastern post-prandial treat.  Our server warned us that the pistachio baklava was very sweet.  More than any other type of baklava, pistachio baklava is balanced.  Sure it’s got the requisite cloying honey in between layers of crispy phyllo dough, but the crushed pistachios temper the sweetness of the honey very well.  It’s still too sweet for my Kim who can wolf down Hostess cupcakes like they were water.  Her dessert consisted of three Moroccan cookies, all far less sweet than the pistachio baklava.  Our server told us that on Sunday Habibi House is taken over by a chef who serves Moroccan specialties.  Sounds like a Sunday visit is in order.

1 December 2023:  Greek philosopher Aristotle defined three types of friendship, the highest type of which is “virtue friendship” which is based on mutual admiration of our friend’s character and sharing of the same values. Unlike the two other kinds of friendships which are more based on self-interest, virtue friendship is based on “mutual concern of each person for the other for his own sake.”  It’s been my experience over my 39 years on planet Earth that virtue friendships can and are often made in the workplace.  That makes sense considering the time we spend at work totals more than nine years.

Two of my very favorite people in the universe–Elaine Rising and Nader Khalil–come from friendships developed at the University of New Mexico.  From outward appearances, you wouldn’t think the three of us would be so drawn together.  Elaine is a statuesque blonde with a heart of gold, Nader is an Egyptian born engineer with an easy laugh then there’s boring old me.  We don’t have the opportunity to break bread together as often as we’d like, but when we do I’m reminded why I love my friends so much.  They really are special.

Because special meals with special friends require special foods, we shared a vegetarian plate for two.  Even if you think vegetarian is an offensive, maybe even fighting word, you’ll like this vegetarian plate.  Who doesn’t like hummus and baba ghanoush?  Then there’s tabouli, falafel, Middle Eastern pickles and a cucumber yogurt salad all accompanied by some of the very best pita bread you’ll ever have.  The vegetarian plate invites a lot of dipping and sharing so it would behoove you to share this bounty with friends or family.

Though I didn’t learn any new words at Habibi House, it was wonderful visiting with Abu Abdullah and seeing what he can do with a real kitchen instead of a smaller food truck kitchen.  What he can do is culinary magic!

Habibi House
3218 Silver Avenue
Albuquerque, New Mexico
LATEST VISIT: 1 December 2023
1st VISIT: 20 May 2023
# OF VISITS: 2
RATING: 23
COST: $$
BEST BET: Baba Ganouj, Pita, Pistachio Baklava, Whole Chicken, Lamb Chops, Moroccan Cookies, Middle Eastern Pickles, Hummus, Cucumber Yogurt, Falafel, Tabouli
REVIEW #1333